Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [501]
Return to beginning of chapter
Drinking
Cologne’s thirst parlours range from grungy to grand. Centres of action include the Altstadt, with its rollicking pubs and beer halls; the Friesenviertel along Friesenwall and Friesenstrasse; the ‘Kwartier Lateng’ (Cologne dialect for Latin Quarter, or student quarter), also known as Zülpicher Viertel, along Zülpicher Strasse, Roonstrasse and Kyffhäuser Strasse; and the Belgisches Viertel (Belgian Quarter) along Bismarckstrasse, Flandrische Strasse and Maastrichter Strasse.
BEER HALLS
Beer reigns supreme in Cologne, where over 20 breweries produce the local variety called Kölsch, which is served in skinny glasses called Stangen. Pick from a selection of stout Rhenish dishes to keep you grounded.
Brauhaus Peters (Map; 257 3950; Mühlengasse 1; dishes €4-13; 11am-12.30am) This relative youngster draws a somewhat less raucous crowd knocking back their Kölsch in a web of highly individualistic nooks, including a room lidded by a kaleidoscopic stained-glass ceiling. On Tuesday, insiders invade for the potato pancakes, freshly made and topped with anything from apple compote to smoked salmon.
Früh am Dom (Map; 261 30; Am Hof 12-14; breakfast €4-13, mains €4-20) This warren of a beer hall near the Dom epitomises Cologne earthiness. Sit inside amid loads of knick-knacks or on the terrace next to a fountain. It’s also known for great breakfasts.
Päffgen (Map; 135 461; Friesenstrasse 64-66; mains €6.50-17; 10am-midnight) Busy, loud and boisterous, Päffgen has been pouring Kölsch since 1883 and hasn’t lost a step since. In summer you can enjoy the refreshing brew and local specialities beneath starry skies in the beer garden.
Schreckenskammer (Map; 132 581; Ursula-gartenstrasse 11; mains €8-15; 11am-1.45pm & 4.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat) Empty chairs are a rare sight at this locals’ favourite that has better food than your average beer hall. New in 2009: the beer garden (enter from Ursulakloster 20).
Malzmühle (Map; 210 117; Heumarkt 6; mains €8-15; 10am-midnight) Expect plenty of local colour at this convivial beer hall off the beaten tourist track. It brews Kölsch with organic ingredients and is also known for its lighter Malzbier (malt beer, 2% alcohol).
PUBS & BARS
Scheinbar (Map; 923 9048; Brüsseler Strasse 10; from 8pm) If you needed any proof that Cologne’s nightlife is smoking hot, simply stop by this bar that’s dressed in red satin, lava lamps and has sitting areas perfect for chilling.
Six Pack (Map; 254 587; Aachener Strasse 33; 8pm-5am) This is a must-stop on any Belgian Quarter pub crawl. Belly up to the super-long bar and pick from several-dozen varieties of beer, all served by the bottle from a giant fridge. Things can get seriously jammed after midnight.
Sky Beach (Map; 1654 9904; above Aral petrol station, Cäcilienstrasse 32; from noon, weather permitting, Apr-Sep) Check out the city skyline while wiggling your toes in Sahara sand on the upper deck of a parking garage at this quirky beach bar.
Shepheard (Map; 331 0994; Rathenauplatz 5; 8pm-3am Tue-Sat) This glamorous cocktail bar lures chatty sophisticates huddled in intense conversation and grateful for the mellow lighting and jazz. Named for a colonial hotel in Cairo, it offers 190 different cocktails, including 40 original creations.
Flanagans (Map; 257 0674; Alter Markt 36; 5pm-1am, to 3am Tue, Fri & Sat) Irish pub. Enough said.
Return to beginning of chapter
Entertainment
For Cologne’s main nightlife quarters, see Drinking (opposite). Major listings magazines are Monatsvorschau (bilingual, mainstream), Kölner Illustrierte (mainstream), Prinz (trendy) and StadtRevue (alternative), available at newsagents and bookshops.
NIGHTCLUBS & LIVE MUSIC
Gebäude 9 (off Map; 814 637; Deutz-Mülheimer Strasse 127; Stegerwaldsiedlung) This ex-factory is an essential indie-rock concert venue in town. DJs take over at other times, and there’s also an eclectic programme of non-mainstream plays and films. Take tram 3 or 4 to KölnMesse/Osthallen.