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Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [511]

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Aachen. These are still displayed every seven years (next in 2014). To accommodate the flood of the faithful, a Gothic choir was docked to the chapel in 1414 and filled with such priceless treasures as the pala d’oro, a gold-plated altar-front depicting Christ’s Passion, and the jewel-encrusted gilded copper pulpit, both fashioned in the 11th century. At the far end is the gilded shrine of Charlemagne that has held the emperor’s remains since 1215. In front, the equally fanciful shrine of St Mary shelters the cathedral’s four premium relics.

Unless you join a guided tour (adult/concession €3/2.50, 45 minutes), you’ll only catch a glimpse of Charlemagne’s white marble imperial throne in the upstairs gallery. Reached via six steps – just like King Solomon’s throne – it served as the coronation throne of those 30 German kings between 936 and 1531. The 2pm tour is in English.


DOMSCHATZKAMMER

The cathedral treasury ( 4770 9127; Klostergasse; adult/concession €4/3; 10am-1pm Mon, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Jan-Mar, 10am-1pm Mon, 10am-6pm Tue, Wed, Fri-Sun, 10am-9pm Thu Apr-Dec) is a veritable mother lode of gold, silver and jewels. Focus your attention on the Lotharkreuz, a 10th-century processional cross, and the marble sarcophagus that held Charlemagne’s bones until his canonisation; the relief shows the rape of Persephone.


RATHAUS

The Dom gazes serenely over Aachen’s Rathaus ( 432 7310; Markt; adult/child/concession €2/free/1; 10am-1pm & 2-5pm), a splendid Gothic pile festooned with 50 life-size statues of German rulers, including the 30 kings crowned in town. It was built in the 14th century atop the foundations of Charlemagne’s palace of which only the eastern tower, the Granusturm, survives. Inside, the undisputed highlights are the Kaisersaal with its epic 19th-century frescoes by Alfred Rethel and the replicas of the imperial insignia: a crown, orb and sword (the originals are in Vienna).

ART MUSEUMS

Of Aachen’s two art museums, the Suermondt Ludwig Museum ( 479 800; www.suermondt-ludwig-museum.de; Wilhelmstrasse 18; adult/concession €5/2.50; noon-6pm Tue, Thu & Fri, noon-8pm Wed, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) is especially proud of its medieval sculpture but also has fine works by Cranach, Dürer, Macke, Dix and other masters.

In a former umbrella factory, the Ludwig Forum für Internationale Kunst (Ludwig Forum for International Art; 180 7104; www.ludwigforum.de; Jülicherstrasse 97-109; adult/concession €5/2.50; noon-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri, noon-8pm Thu, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun) trains the spotlight on contemporary art (Warhol, Immendorf, Holzer, Penck, Haring etc) and also stages progressive changing exhibits.


CAROLUS-THERMEN

Oriental pools, honey rubs, deep-tissue massages and soothing saunas are among the relaxation options at the Carolus-Thermen (Thermal Baths; 182 740; www.carolus-thermen.de; Passstrasse 79, Stadtgarten; admission with/without sauna from €22/11; 9am-11pm), a snazzy bathing complex on the edge of the city park.


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Sleeping

For room reservations call 0241-180 2950 or link to www.aachen-tourist.de.

DJH hostel ( 711 010; www.aachen.jugendherberge.de; Maria-Theresia-Allee 260; dm/s/tw €23/37/57; ) Aachen’s modernised hostel is nicely located in a park overlooking the city. About one third of the rooms have private bathrooms. Take bus 2 (direction Preuswald) to the Ronheide stop.

Hotel Stadtnah ( 474 580; http://hotelstadtnah.de; Leydelstrasse 2; s/d from €48/64; ) The tab ain’t steep but neither do you get the ‘Ritz’. Still, if you’re fine with basic decor and amenities, this 16-room cheapie near the Hauptbahnhof should do in a snap. Bonus: kids under eight stay free in their parents’ room.

Hotel Benelux ( 400 030; www.hotel-benelux.de; Franzstrasse 21-23; s €94-109, d €120-154; ) Though on a busy street, this well-run place has 33 quiet, uncluttered rooms reached via art-filled floors. Fuel up with a generous breakfast served tableside and wrap things up with a sunset drink in the rooftop garden. There’s even a small gym to work out the kinks.

Hotel Drei Könige ( 483 93; www.h3k-aachen.de,

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