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By Root 2218 0

in German; Büchel 5; s €90-130, d €120-160, apt €130-240; ) The radiant Mediterranean decor is an instant mood enhancer at this family-run favourite with its doesn’t-get-more-central location. Some rooms are a tad twee but the two-room apartment sleeps up to four. Breakfast on the 4th floor comes with dreamy views over the rooftops and the cathedral.

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AACHEN FROM ABOVE

In fine weather, get off the asphalt and onto the trails of the densely forested spa garden north of the Altstadt. A brisk 20-minute walk takes you up the 264m-high Lousberg hill where the entire city panorama unfolds below you. For even more memorable 360-degree views, ride the lift up to the top of the old water tower, which is now the rotating Drehturmcafe ( 10am-6pm). Get there by cutting north on Kupferstrasse from Ludwigsallee, then left on Belvedereallee.

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ROUTE CHARLEMAGNE

In 2008 Aachen embarked on a multi-year project called Route Charlemagne to showcase its 1200-year tradition as a European city of culture and science. By 2012 a variety of themed exhibits will appear in such historic sites as the Rathaus (town hall), the cathedral and the Elisenbrunnen. Meanwhile, an information centre, the multimedia Infobox (Theaterplatz; admission free; 11am-8pm Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat, 1-6pm Sun), provides an overview.

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Eating & Drinking

Sausalitos ( 160 5516; Markt 52-54; mains €5-15; noon-1am) Park yourself on the patio of this perennially popular cantina overlooking Markt, sip a fruity cocktail and indulge in a dose of people-gawking. Pretty good Tex-Mex sustenance, too.

Pasta ( 288 91; Jakobstrasse 1; mains €6-12; 10am-5pm Mon, 10am-9.30pm Tue-Sat) Fish-shaped ravioli paired with salmon creme is just one of the creative offerings at this popular pasta shop. All noodles are made fresh daily and available for take-away or for eating on the spot, preferably on the terrace. Avoid the lunch-hour rush.

Leo van den Daele ( 357 24; Büchel 18; dishes €7-11; 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6.30pm Sun) Leather-covered walls, tiled stoves and antiques forge the yesteryear flair of this rambling cafe institution. Come for all-day breakfast, a light lunch or divine cakes (the strudel and the Belgian Reisfladen, made with rice, are specialities).

Am Knipp ( 331 68; Bergdriesch 3; mains €8-17; dinner Wed-Mon) Hungry grazers have stopped by this traditional inn since 1698 and you too will have a fine time spiking your cholesterol level with the hearty German cuisine served amid a flea market’s worth of knick-knacks. Lovely beer garden as well.

Gaststätte Postwagen ( 350 01; Krämerstrasse 2; mains €10-20; noon-midnight) This place, tacked onto the town hall, oozes olde-worlde flair from every nook and cranny and is a good place for classic German meals. The downstairs is made to look like an 18th-century postal coach (hence the name).

Edo ( 478 70; Peterstrasse 71; mains €12.50-28, menu €36-77; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Aachen’s Japanese food lovers have Edo, the city’s first certified organic restaurant, on the speed dial. The sushi, the grilled duck and the tenderloin steak all get rave reviews. Or book a seat at the Teppan grill and go for the whole menu.

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Entertainment

For listings pick up the free Klenkes in cafes, pubs and the tourist office. The main bar-hopping drag is student-flavoured Pontstrasse (locals say ‘Ponte’).

Apollo Kino & Bar ( 900 8484; Pontstrasse 141-149; Mon-Sat) This cavernous basement joint does double duty as an art-house cinema and a sweaty dance club for the student brigade. Alt-sounds rule on Mondays, salsa on Tuesdays, but on other nights it could be anything from dancehall to disco, house to power pop.

Malteserkeller ( 257 74; Malteserstrasse 14; usually Tue-Sat) Elvin Jones and Bill Ramsey used to be regulars at what was once a venerable jazz venue. Changing tastes and financial realities have translated into an expanded musical menu that includes electro-funk, house, Nu Skool and punk.

Starfish ( 938 900; Liebigstrasse