Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [527]
Hafen Bar ( 289 7810; Hafenweg 26a; from 10am Mon-Fri, from 8pm Sat) For a glamour vibe without the velvet rope, beat a trail to this stylish glass cube in the Hafenviertel. Soft lighting gives even pasty-faced hipsters a healthy glow.
Hot Jazz Club ( 6866 7909; Hafenweg 26b) Also in the trendy Hafenviertel, this subterranean bar keeps it real with live music of all stripes, not only jazz.
For a relaxed pint, steer to the Kuhviertel, the traditional student quarter north of the Dom. Cavete ( 457 00; Kreuzstrasse 38) and the brew-pub Pinkus Müller ( 451 51; Kreuzstrasse 4; closed Sun) with its wacky Westphalian decor have both been classics for generations.
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Getting There & Away
The Münster Osnabrück International Airport ( 02571-943 360; www.fmo.de; Hüttruper Heide 71-81) has low-cost flights on Air Berlin to and from London, Rome, Barcelona and other destinations.
Münster is on an IC line with regular links to points north and south and frequent trains to the Ruhrgebiet cities. The city is on the A1 from Bremen to Cologne and is near the starting point of the A43, direction Wuppertal. It is also at the crossroads of the B51, B54 and B219.
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Getting Around
Buses connect the airport and the Haupt-bahnhof every half-hour (€5.60, 40 minutes). Drivers should take the Greven or Ladbergen exit off the A1 and follow the signs.
Bus drivers sell single tickets for €1.30 or €2.20, depending on the distance, as well as day passes for €3.60 (valid after 9am).
Hire bikes at Radstation ( 484 0170; Berliner Platz 27a; 1/3 days €7.50/17.50; 5.30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 7am-11pm Sat & Sun) at the Hauptbahnhof. The tourist office has cycling maps.
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AROUND MÜNSTER
Münster is surrounded by the Münsterland, a flat and rural region that’s home to about 100 castles and palaces, some of which are still owned and inhabited by blue bloods. Many are protected by water-filled moats, which was often the only way for local rulers to keep out the ‘rabble’ and rebels.
The region is a dream for cyclists, with over 4500km of well-signposted trails (called Pättkes in local dialect), including the scenic 100 Schlösser Route, which links, well, 100 palaces. Bicycles can be hired in Münster (left) and at practically all local train stations. Many castles are also served by public transport, though service can be sketchy or convoluted, especially at weekends.
For route planning, lodging and general information, call toll free 0800-939 2919, check www.100-schloesser-route.de or contact the Münster tourist office Click here. For public transport information, call 01803-504 030.
The following are snapshots of a quartet of castles that offer the greatest tourist appeal and, except for Schloss Nordkirchen, are relatively accessible from Münster.
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Burg Hülshoff
In Havixbeck, about 10km west of Münster, Burg Hülshoff ( 02534-1052; Schonebeck 6; adult/concession/family €5/4.50/13; 11am-6.30pm Apr-Nov) is the birthplace of one of Germany’s pre-eminent women of letters, Annette von Droste-Hülshoff (1797–1848). The red-brick Renaissance chateau is embedded in a lovely – partly groomed, partly romantic – park (admission free). The interior, which consists of period rooms furnished in the style of the poet’s day, can be explored with an English-language audioguide. Alas, there’s no public transport out here.
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Haus Rüschhaus
Annette von Droste-Hülshoff did some of her finest writing at the smaller Haus Rüschhaus ( 02533-1317; Am Rüschhaus 81; adult/concession €5/2.50; tours hourly 10am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, 11am, noon, 2pm, 3pm Tue-Sun Mar, Apr & Nov) where she lived for 20 years from 1826. The building was once the private home of star architect Johann Conrad Schlaun, who magically morphed a farmhouse into a baroque mini-mansion backed by a formal garden (always open). It’s in the suburb of Nienberge, about 3km north of Burg Hülshoff,