Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [528]
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Burg Vischering
The quintessential medieval moated castle, Burg Vischering ( 02591-799 00; Berenbrok 1) is Westphalia’s oldest (1271), and the kind that conjures romantic images of knights and damsels. Surrounded by a system of ramparts and ditches, the complex consists of an outer castle and the main castle, now a museum (adult/concession/family €2.50/2/6; 10am-12.30pm & 1-5.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar).
Burg Vischering is in Lüdinghausen, about 30km south of Münster. Catch bus S90/91 or S92 at the Hauptbahnhof to Lüdinghausen (€5.60, 45 minutes), then walk for about 10 minutes.
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Schloss Nordkirchen
On an island surrounded by a sprawling, manicured park, Schloss Nordkirchen ( 02596-9330; tours €2; noon-5pm Sun May-Sep, 2-4pm Sun Oct-Apr & by prior arrangement) is an imposing baroque red-brick structure nicknamed the ‘Westphalian Versailles’. On a nice day, the palace is well worth visiting for the gardens and the exterior alone. Since it’s used as a state college for financial studies, the interior – with its stuccoed ceilings, festival hall and dining room – can only be seen on guided tours.
Schloss Nordkirchen is 8km southeast of Lüdinghausen in the hamlet of Nordkirchen, which is poorly served by public transport. Consult your bike map to find the route between Burg Vischering and Schloss Nordkirchen.
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SOEST
02921 / pop 48,000
Soest is a tranquil town of half-timbered houses and a clutch of treasure-filled churches that reflect the wealth it enjoyed during its Hanseatic League days. Although heavily bombed in WWII, this maze of idyllic, crooked lanes has been beautifully rebuilt and preserves much of its medieval character. Soest is a ‘green’ town, not only because of its natural charms but also for the shimmering greenish shades of the local sandstone used in building its town wall, churches and other public structures. Its romantic looks have also charmed modern artists, including expressionists Emil Nolde, Karl Schmidt-Rottluff and native son Wilhelm Morgner. Only 45km east of Dortmund, Soest is compact enough to be explored on a day trip or as a side trip en route to somewhere else.
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Orientation
The train and bus stations are on the north side of the ring road enclosing Soest’s historic centre. Follow the pedestrianised Brüderstrasse south to the Markt, tourist office, Dom and the churches.
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Information
There are several banks with ATMs around Markt.
Post office (Hospitalgasse 3)
Tourist office ( 6635 0050; www.soest.de; Teichsmühlengasse 3; 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat year-round, 11am-1pm Sun Apr-Oct)
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Sights
Much of Soest’s historic centre lies within a moated defensive wall, which today has a park-like appearance and is great for strolling and picnicking.
Soest is home to some of Westphalia’s most important churches. Closest to the Hauptbahnhof is the exquisite late-Gothic hall church, St Maria zur Wiese (Wiesenstrasse; 11am-4pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun), also known as Wiesenkirche and easily recognised by its lacy neo-Gothic twin spires. These are undergoing restoration and will remain under wraps until at least 2023. The church restoration workshop also operates the Grünsandstein-Museum (Green Sandstone Museum; 150 11; Walburgerstrasse 56; admission free; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun), where you can learn about the origin of Soest’s mysteriously green stone. Inside the church, its delicate proportions and vibrant stained-glass windows create an ethereal atmosphere. An endearing feature is the window above the north portal, which shows Jesus and his disciples enjoying a Westphalian Last Supper of ham, beer and rye bread.
On Hohe Gasse, St Maria zur Höhe ( 10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun Oct-Mar), better known as Hohnekirche, is a squat, older and architecturally