Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [529]
Three more churches are near Markt, a short walk west via the Grosser Teich, a placid duck pond and park where the tourist office occupies an old water mill. The dignified tower of St Patrokli (Propst-Nübel-Strasse 2; 10am-6pm), a three-nave Romanesque structure partly adorned with delicate frescoes, looks down upon the Rathaus, a baroque confection with an arched portico on the western side.
Adjacent to this ensemble is the Petrikirche (Petrikirchhof 10; 9.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm Tue-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat, 2-5.30pm Sun), with Romanesque origins in the 8th century and a choir from Gothic times, all topped by a baroque onion dome. It’s adorned with wall murals and features an unusual modern altar made from the local green sandstone, glass and brushed stainless steel.
The tiny Nikolaikapelle (Thomästrasse; 11am-noon Tue-Thu & Sun) is a few steps southeast of St Patrokli. It’s a pity it’s rarely open, for its almost mystical simplicity is enlivened by a masterful altar painting attributed to 15th-century master Conrad von Soest (who was born in Dortmund).
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Sleeping
DJH hostel ( 162 83; www.djh-wl.de/jh/soest; Kaiser-Friedrich-Platz 2; dm under/over 26yr €19.10/21.80; ) Wallet watchers should check out this renovated yet still rather basic hostel.
Hotel im Wilden Mann ( 150 71; www.im-wilden-mann.de; Am Markt 11; s €49, d €78-85) This central landmark in a portly half-timbered town house offers the opportunity to connect to the magic of yesteryear in a dozen comfortable rooms furnished in rustic country style.
Pilgrim Haus ( 1828; www.pilgrimhaus.de, in German; Jakobistrasse 75; s/d/tr €79/105/128; ) This darling inn has been in the hospitality business since 1304 and hasn’t lost its lustre. Pack your tummy with upscale German fare in the popular restaurant (mains €9 to €20), then report to hushed and elegant rooms decked out in soothing colours and attractive art.
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Eating
Local specialities include the Soester pumpernickel, a rough-textured rye bread made entirely without salt, and the Bullenauge (bull’s eye), a creamy mocha liqueur.
Der Kater ( 135 44; Nöttenstrasse 1; dishes €3-8; 10am-midnight Mon-Sat, 4pm-1am Sun) This kitty is cool and casual and feeds tasty pizza, salads and other simple yet sustaining fare to its admirers.
Bontempi im Park ( 166 31; Im Theodor-Heuss-Park; pizza & pasta €7-9, mains €9-20; 10am-10pm) Let the good times roll in this modern bistro in an idyllic park next to a duck pond. The location may be the biggest selling point, but the Italian food convinces, too. Come for breakfast, snacks, ice cream, coffee or a full meal.
Brauerei Christ ( 155 15; Walburger Strasse 36; mains €10-20; noon-11pm) History oozes from every nook and cranny of this warren of living-room-style rooms stuffed with musical instruments, oil paintings and unique knick-knacks. Hunker down at polished tables for Westphalian specialities or any of its 15 schnitzel variations. Nice beer garden.
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Getting There & Away
Soest is easily reached by train from Dortmund (€10.10, 45 minutes) and is also regularly connected to Paderborn (€10.10, 40 minutes) and Münster (€13.60, 50 minutes). If you’re driving, take the Soest exit from the A44. Soest is also at the crossroads of the B1, B229 and B475.
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PADERBORN
05251 / pop 144,000
About 50km east of Soest, Paderborn is the largest city in eastern Westphalia and offers an intriguing blend of medieval marvels and high-tech. It derives its name from the Pader which, at 4km, is Germany’s shortest river. About 200 springs surfacing in the Paderquellgebiet,