Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [550]
One block south of the tourist office, on the corner of Poststrasse and Runde Strasse, you’ll find one of Celle’s most magnificent buildings, the ornate Hoppener Haus (1532). If you go another block southwards along Poststrasse and stop in the square in the corner, look for the tiny alley between the two buildings: you’ll see a little box with a window that was a baroque toilet.
Retrace your steps to the corner of Poststrasse and Zöllnerstrasse, and turn right into Zöllnerstrasse. You’ll pass No 37 (built in 1570, now the shop Reformhaus), with its heart-warming inscription on the upper gable, ‘Work! No chatting, talking or gossiping!’. Turn left into Rabengasse, and you’ll come to Neue Strasse. Highlights here include the Green House (1478) with the crooked beam at No 32 and the Fairy-Tale House at No 11. The facade of the latter is decorated with characters, such as a jackass crapping gold pieces.
If you’d like to continue walking, double back south, where Celle also has a lovely French Garden at the edge of the Altstadt.
Horse-drawn carriage rides (from €5 per person) depart between April and October from the corner of Bergstrasse and Poststrasse.
SCHLOSS
Celle’s wedding-cake Schloss (Ducal Palace; 123 73; Schlossplatz; adult/concession €5/3, combined Residenzmuseum, Bomann Museum & Kunstmuseum €8/5; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) was built in 1292 by Otto Der Strenge (Otto the Strict) as a town fortification and in 1378 was expanded and turned into a residence. The last duke to live here was Georg Wilhelm (1624–1705), and the last royal was Queen Caroline-Mathilde of Denmark, who died here in 1775.
The Schloss is also used as government administrative offices, so the main part of the palace you see is the Residenzmuseum (Palace Museum). One-hour guided tours (adult/concession €6/4; 11am, 1pm & 3pm Tue-Fri, hourly 11am-3pm Sat Apr-Oct, 11am & 3pm Tue-Fri, also 1pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) take in about half of the museum, but also sections otherwise not accessible. One of these is the Renaissance Schlosskapelle (Palace Chapel), whose original Gothic form is evident in the high windows and vaulted ceiling; the rest of the intricate interior is pure Renaissance. The duke’s pew was above; the shutters were added later so his highness could snooze during the three-hour services. Tours also include the 19th-century Schlossküche (Palace Kitchen) and – rehearsals permitting – the baroque Schlosstheater ( tickets 127 14; www.schlosstheater-celle.de, in German; Schlossplatz; closed Jul & Aug).
KUNSTMUSEUM & BOMANN MUSEUM
Celle’s Kunstmuseum (Art Museum; 123 55; www.kunst.celle.de; Schlossplatz 7; adult/concession incl Bomann Museum €5/3; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun), situated across the road from the Schloss, is dedicated to contemporary German artists. It has come up with an interesting concept, calling itself a ‘24-hour museum’. During the regular daytime opening hours, you can stroll around and admire a collection of modern art that includes work from the early 20th century to the present. A ‘light room’ is the work of the artist Otto Piene, and outside you find his tame Firework for Celle sculptures, which are most effective at night. As night does slowly descend, the ‘nocturnal museum’ glows and oozes different colours, morphing into its own quaint work of ‘art’ with light and a few sounds.
In the older building adjacent, you’ll find the regional history Bomann Museum ( 125 44; www.bomann-museum.de, in German; Schlossplatz 7; adult/concession incl Kunstmuseum €3/2; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun). Here, among other things, you can wander through rooms furnished in 19th-century style.
STADTKIRCHE
Just west of the Rathaus is the 13th-century Stadtkirche ( 7735; www.stadtkirche-celle.de, in German; tower adult/concession €1/0.50; 10am-6pm Tue-Sat Apr-Dec, to 5pm Jan-Mar, tower 10-11.45am & 2-4.45pm Tue-Sat Apr-Oct). You can climb up the 235 steps to the top of the church steeple for a view of the city, or just watch as the city trumpeter climbs the 220 steps to the white tower below the steeple for a trumpet