Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [551]
SYNAGOGUE
Dating back to 1740, Celle’s synagogue ( 124 59; Im Kreise 24; admission free; noon-5pm Tue-Thu, 9am-2pm Fri, 11am-4pm Sun) is the oldest in northern Germany. Partially destroyed during Kristallnacht (see the boxed text, Click here), it looks just like any other half-timbered house from the outside, but a new Jewish congregation formed in 1997 and services are held regularly. Changing exhibitions on Jewish history take place next door.
The synagogue is at the southeastern end of the Altstadt, in the town’s former ghetto.
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Sleeping
The tourist office can help with camping, 4km from the centre.
DJH hostel ( 532 08; www.jugendherberge.de/jh/celle; Weghausstrasse 2; dm under/over 27yr €17.80/20.80; ) In an ironic twist of fate, this rambling youth hostel inside a former school building gets mostly school groups in its six-bed dorms. Although the foyer and breakfast room are bright enough, corridors and rooms are a little bit gloomy. It’s a 25-minute walk from the train station, or take bus 2 to Jugendherberge from the top of Bahnhofstrasse, opposite the station.
Hotel Neun ¾ ( 909 0731; www.hotel934.de, in German; Bahnhofstrasse 46; s/d/tr €42.50/75/92.50; ) The exterior of this budget abode near the main train station is unattractive and some of the window frames inside could do with work, but otherwise it is a very clean, well run and conveniently located place based on a Harry Potter theme – hence the name. Call ahead if arriving after 8pm.
Hotel Celler Hof ( 911 960; www.cellerhof.de, in German; Stechbahn 11; s €70-75, d €105, tr €125; ) The friendly staff, Finnish sauna, tasteful furnishings and above all central location make this a good all-round option. All rooms have a writing desk, and there’s a small lobby bar if you feel like letting your hair down in a public space without going anywhere. It’s a good option for business travellers and tourists alike.
Hotel Utspann ( 927 20; www.utspann.de; Im Kreise 13; s/d/ste €75/105/145; ) This remarkable half-timbered house evokes a staying-with-friends atmosphere. Individually sized rooms – named after towns – variously feature exposed wooden beams, antique desks and even a few alcove beds. The Gartenzimmer (Garden Room; €135) is little short of sensational – it backs onto the jungle-like growth, two walls are floor-to-ceiling glass, and you have your very own private sauna.
Hotel Fürstenhof ( 2010; www.fuerstenhof.de; Hannoversche Strasse 55/56; s from €160, d from €210, ste from €270; ) A converted baroque palace, this renowned five-star hotel has floors featuring themes from ‘Hunting’ on the ground floor to ‘Golf’ on the 6th. In the latter you get a putter and carpet green for practicing your shots. ‘Golf’ rooms don’t have bath tubs, though. The ‘Heide’ theme floor features sheep on the carpet. That the place feels extremely elegant says something about the quality furnishings and the deft touch of the interior designer.
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Eating
Explore the numerous eating and drinking options along Schuhstrasse and Neue Strasse, as well as those on Am Heiligen Kreuz.
Pasta ( 483 460; Neue Strasse 37; mains €4.50-6.50; 9am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat May-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat Oct-Apr; ) Behind this instant Celle hit lies one of those ideas that is so simple it’s genius. Mix your favourite pasta (tagliatelle, penne rigate, gnocchi, ravioli etc) with a sauce that takes your fancy (from bolognese or pesto to tuna and capers, or salmon cream). Crucially, it’s all freshly homemade.
Cafe Central ( 22 320; Am Heiligen Kreuz 5; mains €9.60-21; 9am-1am Mon-Fri, to 2am Sat & Sun; ) This cafe-restaurant with a modern edge has a very strong focus on meat dishes such as schnitzel or medallions in a sauce, and most dishes are well-priced at about €13. A lounge section is reserved for smokers.
India Haus ( 485 152; Neue Strasse 34; mains €8-16; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat & Sun; ) The combination of subcontinental