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Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [580]

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open spaces and sea air make them both a nature lovers’ paradise and a perfect retreat for those escaping the stresses of the world. Like their North Frisian cousins Sylt, Amrum and Föhr Click here, the islands are part of the Wadden Sea (Wattenmeer) National Park. Along with coastal areas of the Netherlands, Germany’s Wadden Sea is a Unesco World Heritage Site.

The main season runs from mid-May to September. Beware, however, that the opening hours of tourist offices in coastal towns change frequently and without notice. Call ahead if possible.


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Getting There & Away

Most ferries sail according to tide times, rather than on a regular schedule, so it’s best to call the local ferry operator or Deutsche Bahn (DB; www.bahn.de/nordseeinseln, in German) for information on departure times on a certain day. Tickets are generally offered either as returns for those staying on the island (sometimes valid for up to two months) or cheaper same-day returns.

In most cases (apart from Borkum, Norderney and Juist) you will need to change from the train to a bus at some point to reach the harbour from where the ferry leaves. Sometimes those are shuttle buses operated by the ferry company, or scheduled services from Weser-Ems Bus ( 04921-974 00; www.weser-ems-bus.de, in German). For more details, see Getting There & Away for each island. For planning bus connections from Norden and Esens to ferry harbours, the tourist office in Emden runs a useful transport information service Click here.

Light aircraft also fly to every island except Spiekeroog. Contact Luftverkehr Friesland Harle ( 04464-948 10; www.inselflieger.de, in German).


RESORT TAX

Each of the East Frisian Islands charges a Kurtaxe (resort tax), entitling you to entry onto the beach and offering small discounts for museums etc. It’s a small amount, typically €3 a day, and if you’re staying overnight it’s simply added to your hotel bill. Remind your hotel to give you your pass should they forget.


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Getting Around

Only Borkum and Norderney allow cars, so heading elsewhere means you’ll need to leave your vehicle in a car park near the ferry pier (about €3.50 per 12 hours).


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WANGEROOGE

The second-smallest of the East Frisian Islands – after Baltrum – is inhabited by just under 1000 people and is the easternmost of the group, lying about 7km off the coast in the region north of Jever. While crunching sand between your toes and watching huge tanker ships lumber past on their way to and from the ports at Bremerhaven, Hamburg and Wilhelmshaven, it’s easy to feel like a willing castaway here.

Two good sources of information are the Kurverwaltung (spa administration; 04469-990; www.wangerooge.de, in German; Strandpromenade 3; 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-noon & 3-4.30pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar) and the Verkehrsverein ( 04469-948 80; info@westturm.de; Hauptbahnhof; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, also 9am-noon Sat & Sun Apr-Oct), which handles room reservations as well.

If you’re feeling active you can climb the 161 steps of Wangerooge’s 39m-tall lighthouse ( 04469-8324; www.leuchtturm-wangerooge.de; adult/child €2/1; 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, Apr-Oct, 10am-noon Nov-Mar) from 1855, take to the sea-water adventure pool or indulge in a long list of sports activities. For more of a learning experience, head to the Nationalparkhaus ( 04469-8397; www.nationalparkhaus-wangarooge.de, in German; Friedrich-August-Strasse 18; admission free; 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Sat & Sun Mar-Oct, 10am-1pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun Nov-Feb).


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Getting There & Away

The ferry to Wangerooge leaves from Harlesiel two to five times daily (1½ hours), depending on the tides. An open return ticket costs €28.80 (two-month time limit), and a same-day return ticket is €18.80. This includes the tram shuttle to the village on the island (4km). Large pieces of luggage are an extra €2.80 each, and a bike €10.50 each way. The ferry is operated by DB ( in Harlesiel 04464-949 411,

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