Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [581]
To reach Harlesiel, take bus 211 from Jever train/bus station (€3.10, 30 minutes).
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SPIEKEROOG
Rolling dunes dominate the landscape of minuscule Spiekeroog; about two-thirds of its 17.4 sq km is taken up by these sandy hills. It’s the tranquillity of this rustic island that draws people, although you can distract yourself with the Pferdebahn (adult/child return €3/2; departs 10am, 10.45am, 3pm & 3.45pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep), a horse-drawn train that runs on rails and dates back to 1885. There are also plenty of baths for swimming.
The tourist office ( 04976-919 3101; www.spiekeroog.de, in German; Noorderpad 25; 9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-noon Mon-Fri, 11am-1pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) is in the ‘Haus Kogge’, where there’s also a Mussel Museum ( 04976-919 3225; admission €1; 9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) with more than 3000 shells of all varieties.
Spiekeroog is not only car-free but discourages bicycles, too.
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Getting There & Away
From the ferry departure point in Neuharlingersiel it takes 40 to 55 minutes to reach Spiekeroog. Ferry times depend on the tides, so same-day returns aren’t always possible. Prices are €12 each way or €20 for same-day return tickets. Each piece of luggage over the two-bag limit costs an extra €2 return. Call 04974-214 or 04976-919 3133, or email reederei@spiekeroog.de for details and tickets.
To get to the ferry, catch a train to Esens (from Jever €5.10, 22 minutes) or Norden (from Emden €5.10, 15 minutes), and change there for a bus (from Esens €3.70, 30 minutes; from Norden €6.40, one hour). Buses outside summer months are infrequent, so check before setting out (see opposite).
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LANGEOOG
Floods and pirates make up the story of Langeoog, whose population was reduced to a grand total of two following a horrendous storm in 1721. By 1830 it had recovered sufficiently to become a resort town.
The island boasts the highest elevation in East Frisia – the 20m-high Melkhörndüne – and the grave of Lale Anderson, famous for being the first singer to record the WWII song ‘Lili Marleen’. Nautical tradition is showcased in the Schiffahrtsmuseum ( 04972-693 211; adult/concession €2.50/1.50; 10am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Thu, 10am-noon Fri & Sat mid-Mar–Oct), and you can also view a sea rescue ship ( 04972-330; admission free; 10.30am-12.30pm Tue, Thu & Sun). In sunshine, the 14km-long beach is clearly the biggest attraction.
Langeoog’s tourist office ( 04972-6930; kurverwaltung@langeoog.de; Hauptstrasse 28; 8am-noon & 2-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-noon Fri) is in the Rathaus, while room reservations ( 04972-693 201; zimmernachweis@langeoog.de; 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) can be dealt with on the 1st floor of the island’s ‘train station’.
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Getting There & Away
The ferry shuttles between Bensersiel and Langeoog at least four times daily. The trip takes about one hour and costs €23 return, or €19.50 for a same-day return. Luggage is €2.50 per piece, bikes €15 return. For details, call 04971-928 90 or see www.schiffahrt-langeoog.de.
To get to Bensersiel, take the train to Esens or Norden, and change to a shuttle bus (from Esens €3.10, 15 minutes; from Norden €5, 50 minutes).
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BALTRUM
The smallest inhabited East Frisian Island, Baltrum is just 1km wide and 5km long and peppered with dunes and salty marshland. It’s so tiny that villagers don’t bother with street names but make do with house numbers instead. Numbers have been allocated on a chronological basis; houses No 1 to 4 no longer exist so the oldest is now No 5.
There’s little to do except go on walks or to the beach, or visit the exhibition on the national-park environment in house No 177 ( 04939-469; admission free; 10am-noon & 3-7pm Tue-Thu, 3-7pm Sat & Sun). As the island closest to the mainland, Baltrum is the most popular destination for Wattwanderungen guided tours (see the boxed text, Click here).
The Kurverwaltung ( 04939-800;