Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [589]
Luv ( 165 5599; Schlachte 15-18; lighter mains under €10, mains €15-24; from 11am Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; ) A friendly atmosphere reigns in this large, upbeat bistro with a menu strong on salads and pasta, which is complemented by more-substantial fare with a Central European focus. A Texas burger can be found alongside the Wiener Schnitzel and nouveau hearty dishes, some with good old Bratkartoffeln (pan-fried potatoes).
Osteria ( 339 8207; Schlachte 1; veg menu €28, 5-course menu €38; from noon; ) Crisp tablecloths and good service are hallmarks of this more formal, upmarket Italian restaurant that has won acclaim beyond the region, especially for its grilled seafood. For vegetarians it has a good selection of pasta dishes without meat as mains for €7 to €10. The open kitchen and tiled floor lend a pleasant, relaxed feel; most people dress up for this one.
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Schnoor
Schröter’s ( 326 677; Schnoor 13; mains €11.50-23.50; lunch & dinner; ) A modern bistro with artful decoration, Schröter’s is known for its antipasti and abundant Mediterranean mains, from risotto to fish. It is a veritable warren of rooms, including a Toulouse-Lautrec room upstairs, decorated with plenty of copies of the painter’s pictures.
Katzen Cafe ( 326 621; Schnoor 38; mains €13.50-24.50, 3-course lunch menu €15; noon-11pm; ) This popular Moulin Rouge–style restaurant opens out into a rear sunken terrace bedecked with flowers. The menu runs the gamut from Alsatian to Norwegian, with seafood a strong theme.
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Das Viertel
This arty, student neighbourhood is where to head for cheaper meals or simply a glass of wine or beer over something light.
Casablanca ( 326 429; Ostertorsteinweg 59; mains €4-17; 9am-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; ) The emphasis is on the ‘Casa’ in this homey Bremen institution, where goths, grannies and particularly students while away the hours within scuffed walls painted to look like marble, and under a ceiling that’s a trompe l’oeil jungle canopy. Upstairs is a glass booth for smokers that begs for a ‘Do Not Feed!’ sign. It’s usually open later weekends and on theatre nights.
Piano ( 785 46; Fehrfeld 64; mains €5.50-9.50; from 9am; ) Another enduringly popular cafe, this bustling place serves pizza, pasta, steaks and vegie casseroles to a broad neighbourhood mix, from media types checking proofs to young mums. Breakfast can also be ordered until 4pm Saturday and 5pm Sunday.
Cafe Engel ( 766 15; Ostertorsteinweg 31; mains €6-15; from 10am; ) Housed in a former pharmacy, this is a popular hang-out that coordinates tasteful black-and-white tiled floors with dark wood furniture. In summer, tables spill onto the pavement.
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DRINKING
The waterfront Schlachte promenade has a respectably long line of bars catering to all tastes. For either a slightly older, alternative feel or for a student vibe, head to Das Viertel and just walk along O-Weg. Auf den Höfen, north of O-Weg and also part of Das Viertel, has a good selection of bars. Check listings mags, such as Prinz, Bremen4U or Port0, for more details.
Wohnzimmer ( 163 2064; Ostertorsteinweg 99; from 2pm) This bar and lounge mostly gets a relaxed 20s and 30s crowd, who hang out on the sofas – which explains the name ‘Living Room’ – or lounge around on the mezzanine levels in non-smoker and smoker areas.
2raumlounge ( 745 77; Auf den Höfen; from 7pm; ) This is the jiving lynchpin of the Auf den Höfen scene. Sitting in the space-age orange chairs, you can gaze at the regularly changing art on the walls and even buy a piece if you feel inclined to do so. Though the crowd is largely mid-20s, a few older regulars dig in here, especially when football team Werder Bremen is playing – Werder matches are always screened here. Thursday is student night.
Lagerhaus ( 702 168; www.kulturzentrum-lagerhaus.de, in German; Schildstrasse 12/19; from 6pm Mon-Sat, from 4pm Sun; ) This once-dilapidated warehouse off Ostertorsteinweg was squatted by young