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revolutionaries in the 1970s and later became a cultural centre. Although the young revolutionaries grew long in the tooth, the building actually got younger – or rather, was reprieved from the developer’s demolition ball and given a face lift, thanks to their efforts. Today it houses a pub with an alternative flavour downstairs and upstairs has regular parties (about €3, from 11pm or midnight) for a 20s to 30-something crowd. Concerts are held here, too.

Bodega Del Puerto ( 178 3797; Schlachte 31a; from 5pm Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun; ) Essentially, the point of the Schlachte is exploration – to walk along it and see which bar you most like the look of. However, this one is the prime choice for a Spanish-style place with good tapas.

Feldmann’s ( 168 9192; Schlachte 19-20; dishes €4.60-14; 10.30am-midnight Sun-Thu, 10.30am-1am Fri, 10.30am-2am Sat; ) A slightly older crowd can be found chatting and lingering over the wide range of Haake-Beck beers in this modern Bierhaus, which also sells food.

Café Sand ( 556 011; Strandweg 106; Pommes & Becks €4.40; from 10am May-Sep, noon-6pm Fri & Sat, 10am-6pm Sun Jan-Apr, Oct & Nov; ) Situated on an island in the Weser River, this cafe makes you feel light years away from the city. In fact, it serves the local swimming holes – the ‘golden sands’ of the Weser beach in summer, as well as the lake (which you can also swim in), a 10-minute walk inland on the island. Families come here for cake and coffee, but it also kicks on some evenings. If that’s the case, keep an ear open for the announcement of the last ferry back or you’ll have to walk west and cross at Wilhelm-Kaisen-Brücke.

Cafe Tölke ( 324 330; Schnoor 23a; 10am-7.30pm; ) This taste of a Viennese coffee house in Bremen will please even the most discerning tipplers of the regally roasted bean. Furnishings are original sofas, mirrors and chairs from the Austrian capital, but offering a less stuffy, more Hanseatic interpretation. It’s a long-time favourite in the Schnoor and lends itself to unwinding between sights.

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GAY & LESBIAN BREMEN

Bremen’s gay scene is, like the city itself, relatively small but friendly. A handful of bars and clubs in the streets An der Weide and its extension Ausser der Schleifmühle make up the main quarter for guys. The lesbian scene is very small and centres on Cafe Kweer (Rat & Tat Zentrum; 700 008; www.ratundtat-bremen.de/events.php, in German; Theodor-Körner-Strasse 1; 8pm-midnight Tue & Wed, 8pm-1am Fri), part of the information centre for gays and lesbians. It becomes a lesbian cafe from 9pm every third Saturday of the month, and from 3pm to 6pm each Sunday (with football screenings if Werder Bremen happens to be playing). Other events are also held here for gays and lesbians, so it’s worthwhile checking out the website.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Nightclubs

Clubbing in Bremen is relatively cheap; expect to pay €4 to €8 at the door for regular nights, although special events may cost more. Rembertiring, near the main train station, has a string of clubs for a very young crowd. See Dangers & Annoyances.

Lila Eule ( 794 0664; www.lilaeule.de, in German; Bernhardstrasse 10; admission free, parties €3-6, bands €8-10; from 8pm, plus special events) A decade or more is a long time to be a hot tip, but this gem off Sielwall has pulled it off. A student crowd gathers here for parties and events, but it’s also a very alternative place to watch the Werder Bremen football team; most Werder matches are shown here. Thursday night is the legendary student bash.

Modernes ( 505 553; www.modernes.de, in German; Neustadtwall 28; from 11pm Fri & Sat, plus special events) South of the river in Neustadt, this converted old movie theatre also hosts live music, and remains Bremen’s best club, bar none. The centrepiece is the domed roof that can be opened to let in some much-needed air towards the end of the evening.

NFF Cream Club ( 345 199; Katherinenstrasse 12-14; Fri & Sat, plus special events) With a futuristic-looking bar, a chic dance floor and lots of cocktails,