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DJH hostel Warnemünde ( 548 170; www.warnemuende.jugendherberge.de; Parkstrasse 47; dm under/over 26yr €25.20/30.80; ) This decade-old, family-friendly hostel is in a converted weather station near the western end of the Warnemünde beach. Take the S-Bahn to Warnemünde S-Bahn to the Lichtenhagen stop, then change to bus 36 to Warnemünde beach.

Hotel-Pension Zum Kater ( 548 210; www.pension-zum-kater.de, in German; Alexandrinenstrasse 115; s €50-72, d €72-129, breakfast €8; ) Less than 10 minutes’ stroll from the beach, and even closer to the harbour, this guesthouse manages to be sweet and cosy without straying into Laura Ashley territory. It’s possible to stay less than three nights over weekends in the high season, but there’s a supplement of €21/16 per person for the first/second nights. Look for the cute black cat logo.

Residenz Strandhotel ( 548 060; www.residenz-strandhotel.de, in German; Seestrasse 6; s €69-85, d without sea view €70-110, d with sea view €78-155, ste €165-229; ) The balcony-clad exterior of this new hotel reflects and updates the fishermen’s cottages along Alter Strom. Inside, you’ll find stylish, sound-insulated rooms with flat-screen TVs, plus a library. Spa treatments and physiotherapy are available, as is free ‘energised’ water.

Hotel am Leuchtturm ( 543 70; www.hotel-am-leuchtturm.de; Am Leuchtturm 16; s €95-125, d €110-215; ) There are sea or harbour views from every room, but the corner ones are especially panoramic at this place by the lighthouse. The oft-used colours of yellow and blue are given a designer twist in the spacious, light-filled accommodation.

Hotel Neptun ( 7770; www.hotel-neptun.de; Seestrasse 19; s/d from €115/174; ) As hideous as this enormous concrete boxlike building is, its balconies are cleverly angled so that each room has a beach view. Inside, it’s a haven of luxuriously renovated rooms, numerous bars and restaurants (including a panoramic 64m-high cafe), and a spa and supervised gym. Past guests have included Fidel Castro and Franz Beckenbauer.

Strand-Hotel Hübner ( 543 40; www.hotel-huebner.de; Seestrasse 12; s €135-175, d €175-220; ) Fabulous views unfold from the balconies of this cruise-liner-like beachside hotel. Highlights include a glassed-in wellness centre and guest lounge overlooking the Baltic Sea, where in winter you can enjoy coffee, cakes, fondue, baked apples or Feuerzangenbowle punch (see boxed text, Click here).

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Eating

CITY

Zum Alten Fritz ( 208 780; Warnowufer 65; mains €7.60-18.90; from 11am) With a good range of standards, plus organic meats and specials like turkey in beer, this big pub-restaurant down on the docks is part of an expanding local brewery chain.

Ratskeller ( 510 8460; Rathaus, Neuer Markt 1; mains €8.50-14.50; from 11am) Descending the steps to Rostock’s circa-eight-century-old Ratskeller (town hall restaurant) brings you into a vast, low-lit series of cross-vaulted rooms that provide an atmospheric backdrop for dining on its hearty German fare (lots of pork, lots of sauerkraut).

Zur Kogge ( 493 4493; Wokrenterstrasse 27; mains €8.60-14.80; 11.30am-midnight; ) At this Rostock institution, cosy wooden booths are lined with stained-glass Hanseatic coats of armour and monster fish threatening sailing ships, while life preservers hang from the walls, and ships lanterns are suspended from the ceiling. Local fish dishes (rollmops and so on) dominate the menu, or you can stop by for coffee and cake between meal times. There’s an above-average kids’ menu, too.

Albert & Emile ( 493 4373; Altschmiedestrasse 28; mains €10.90-16.90; from 6.30pm Tue-Sat) Rostock’s most romantic place to dine is this French jewel. Behind the ivy-covered facade it’s a haven of black-and-white marble tiles and dark timber, chansonniers crooning from the speakers and accomplished haute cuisine on the handwritten menu.

Amberg 13 ( 490 6262; Amberg 13; mains €14.30-15.90; 5-11pm Tue-Sun plus brunch from 11am 2nd & 4th Sun of month) This relaxed,