Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [656]
WARNEMÜNDE
Fish – fresh, fried, baked, smoked, you name it – is the order of the day here. Both banks of the harbour are lined with kiosks and caravans selling inexpensive fish sandwiches – perfect if you’re heading to the beach or a nearby bench along the harbourfront, though not so good if you’re dining in one of the restaurants behind, as they often block the views.
Fischerhaus ( 778 8474; Am Bahnhof 1d; mains €6.95-14.50; 11am-10pm) In one of the newer developments along the eastern bank of Alter Strom (where the food is at least as good as the traditional western bank), this relaxed canteen-style place serves simple but delicious dishes: salmon in beer batter, fried Baltic eel, and – for a change from fish – fried liver with apples, onions and mash.
Fischerklause ( 525 16; Am Strom 123; mains €8.80-14.95; from 11.30am) Fischerklause is one of the atmospheric old fishermen’s cottages lining the western bank of Alter Strom, and attracts plenty of tourists (but then so does all of Warnemünde). Still, its ship’s cabin decor and its succulent seafood make it worth seeking out. Afterwards pop in for a drink at the adjoining bar fronted by thatched umbrellas.
La Villa ( 510 9944; Am Bahnhof 1b; tapas €2.50-9.60, mains €14.90-26; from 11.30am) Fish dishes have a modern Mediterranean accent at this designer cafe/restaurant, where meals are served in a stripped interior of bare boards, banquettes and high-backed wicker chairs. Its extensive tapas menu is best sampled over a glass of freshly made strawberry punch.
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Drinking
CITY
Krahnstöver Likörfabrik ( 4377 7654; Grubenstrasse 1; ) Rostock’s oldest family-run wine merchant owns this multifaceted bistro-bar-cafe, next to an artificial stream near the city wall. It also has a brasserie in the Steigenberger Hotel Sonne.
Studentenkeller ( 455 928; www.studentenkeller.de, in German; Universitätsplatz 5; Tue-Sat) This cellar and garden joint has been rocking Rostock’s learned youth for years. Check the website for parties, DJ sets and other events.
Café Central ( 490 4648; Leonhardstrasse 20; from 9.30am Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun) In the heart of the scene, Café Central has cult status among Rostock locals. Students, artists, hipsters and suited-up professionals all loll around sipping long drinks on the banquettes below black-and-white photos or enjoy a tall beer over a game of backgammon at the tables in the centre.
WARNEMÜNDE
Schuster’s ( 700 7835; Im Teepott; from 11am) Head here for sunset cocktails. It has a hip summer pavilion on the beach a few metres from its main location in the quirky, mollusc-shaped Teepott building.
Sky-Bar (19th fl, Hotel Neptun; hours vary) Live music plays at this ritzier venue, where the roof opens up to reveal the star-filled sky).
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Entertainment
Live gigs, DJs, concerts and a host of other events are listed in Szene (www.szenerostock.de) and Piste (www.piste.de/rostock), both in German.
MS Stubnitz ( 490 7475; www.stubnitz.com; Stadthafen, Liegeplatz 82; hours vary) A former fishing trawler has been converted into Rostock’s most unusual and most alternative, grunge-style venue, with bands, DJs and performances over three decks. Beware that the boat sometimes sails off to entertain other cities, too.
Mau Club Rostock ( 202 3576; www.mauclub.de, in German; Warnowufer 56; Fri, Sat & special events) Everything from indie to punk to disco attracts a wide-ranging crowd to this former storage hall. It’s well known for its support of up-and-coming acts and hosts many free local band evenings.
Zwischenbau Rostock ( 377 8737; www.zwischenbau.com, in German; Erich-Schlesinger-Strasse 19a, Südstadt; Fri, Sat & special events) A temple for serious dance music of various