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Add an 8-ounce can of sliced water chestnuts, an 8-ounce can of sliced bamboo shoots, and/or a 15-ounce can of straw mushrooms at the end of step 4. (Drain and discard the liquid from any of these.)

Garnish each serving with a few drops of additional toasted sesame oil.

Pass some chile oil or additional red pepper flakes at the table.

cream of spinach and broccoli soup

Makes 4 to 6 servings

A bright green soup belongs in every cook’s repertoire, and I hope this one will become yours. Garlic appears twice in this recipe, in two forms—fresh and roasted. This adds layers of flavor that make the soup multidimensional (a good thing in a soup—or in anything you cook, for that matter). Peeling the potato is optional; if the skin looks fresh and tight and the potato is organic, you can simply give it a rinse and a quick scrub with a vegetable brush. The peel will then add some nice subtle texture to the soup. Prewashed spinach, packed in a bag or box, makes this easy. You can also use frozen chopped spinach (defrost it first), but avoid using frozen broccoli—its flavor just won’t come close to fresh here.

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons butter

1 medium red or yellow onion, chopped

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons minced garlic (about 2 good-sized cloves)

4 cups water

1 medium russet potato, cut into small dice

10 ounces fresh baby spinach (can also be frozen, defrosted)

3 heaping cups chopped broccoli

1 heaping tablespoon Roasted Garlic Paste (Chapter 1: Soups)

¾ cup milk

30 basil leaves, minced (about ¼ cup)

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Place a soup pot or a Dutch oven over medium heat. After about a minute, add the olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Toss in the butter, and swirl until it melts into the oil. Add the onion and salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the onion becomes translucent. Stir in the fresh garlic, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook for 5 minutes longer.

2. Add the water and the diced potato. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat all the way down to the lowest possible setting. Partially cover, and simmer gently for about 15 minutes, or until the potato becomes completely soft. (It’s okay to err on the side of its becoming falling-apart tender.)

3. Add the spinach, broccoli, and garlic paste. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat all the way down to the lowest possible setting. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until the broccoli is very tender.

4. Add the milk, remove the pot from the heat, and let it sit until the soup cools down to a comfortable puréeing temperature.

5. Use a blender or immersion blender (see Chapter 1: Soups) to purée the soup until it is smooth. When you’re finished blending, stir in the basil.

6. Reheat the soup gently over medium-low heat, being careful not to let it boil (which would cook it further and alter its flavor). Add a few grinds of black pepper to taste, and serve hot.

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GET CREATIVE

Pair this with Taco Salad (Chapter 2: Salads) for a very satisfying—and unexpected—soup-salad combo dinner.

Top each serving with a dash of nutmeg. (It will be more aromatic and flavorful if you grate it from a whole seed, which also makes for a nice serving touch at the table.)

Garnish each serving with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt and/or a small sprig of basil or a sprinkling of minced chives.

Make this vegan by omitting the butter and using plain soy milk instead of the regular milk.

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north african red lentil soup

Makes 6 to 8 servings

This is one of those remarkable dishes that manages to be both quick and complex-tasting at the same time—and with just a few ingredients. The key lies in cooking the lentils first, and then adding sautéed onion, carrot, and garlic toward the end of the cooking process, so you really taste their full flavor in every spoonful. Look for red lentils in the bulk section near the brown lentils. (They’re actually orange, not red, and turn a deep golden yellow when cooked. For some reason,