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This soup is vegan.

2 cups red lentils

8 cups water

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium red or yellow onion, chopped

1 large carrot, diced

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 tablespoon minced garlic (about 3 good-sized cloves)

1½ teaspoons salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Lime wedges, for garnish

1. Combine the lentils and water in a soup pot or a Dutch oven. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat all the way down to the lowest possible setting. Partially cover, and simmer gently for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the lentils are completely soft.

2. Meanwhile, place a large (10-to 12-inch) skillet over medium heat. After about a minute, add the olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the onion, carrot, cumin, garlic, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until the onion is golden and very soft and the carrot is tender.

3. Transfer the onion mixture to the cooked lentils, and add the remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat all the way down to the lowest possible setting. Partially cover, and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until the flavors are well blended.

4. Grind in a generous amount of black pepper (about 10 or more turns), and stir to blend. Serve hot, with a lime wedge on the side.

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GET CREATIVE

Add a Greek Salad (Chapter 2: Salads) and a wedge or two of toasted pita, and you’ve got yourself a seriously rib-sticking dinner.

Drizzle some high-quality olive oil onto each serving.

Sprinkle some lightly toasted whole cumin seeds (up to 2 teaspoons total; see below) onto each serving, or mix them into the soup just before serving.

Brown a spicy lamb or chicken sausage or two in a skillet while the soup simmers. Slice, and stir into the finished soup.

Garnish each serving with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt, and a sprig of flat-leaf parsley or cilantro.

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TOASTING SEEDS

Toasting mellows and deepens the flavor of cumin seeds, sesame seeds, and many other seeds and spices. It’s as easy as spreading the seeds in a shallow layer on the tray of a toaster oven (or on a baking tray, if you’re using a regular oven) and toasting them at 200°F for about 5 minutes (give or take) until they’re lightly browned and aromatic. You can also toast them on the stovetop in a dry cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat. Either way, shake the tray or the pan frequently, and hover. If you turn away for too long, the seeds can suddenly go from toasty to scorched.

roasted butternut squash and apple soup

Makes 4 to 5 servings

You are probably expecting something sweet and cinnamon-y, but that’s not what you’re going to get. This soups heads in another, very refreshing direction, opting for tart over sweet (or, to be more accurate, a playful tension between both sweet and tart) and it chooses the mysterious savory presence of sage over the more predictable (and in my opinion, overused) pumpkin-pie family of spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cloves). Ix-nay on those this time around! It’s time for something entirely different—and quite utterly great-tasting.

Unless you give it a little help, squash can be bland. Roasting it in chunks at a high temperature intensifies its natural sugars, bringing out a wonderfully sweet, toasty flavor. You can roast the squash in advance. If you do, let it cool and then store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days; let it come to room temperature (or warm it in the microwave) before making the soup.

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 medium (about 4 pounds) butternut squash

2 tablespoons butter

1 medium red or yellow onion, chopped

1½ teaspoons salt

2 medium Granny Smith apples, peeled and thinly sliced

½ teaspoon crumbled dried (or rubbed) sage

¼ teaspoon dried thyme

4 cups water

Up to 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, as needed

Up to 1 tablespoon brown sugar (light or dark), as needed

1. Adjust the oven rack to the center position, and preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking tray with foil and