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PAIRING: A vinho verde, such as NV Broadbent, Portugal, or a muscadet.

albacore parcels with mint-pistachio pesto

For the mint-pistachio pesto:

¾ cup shelled pistachios

¼ cup sliced almonds

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes

½ cup packed fresh mint leaves

Salt and freshly ground pepper

For the tuna:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive

oil, plus additional for brushing

the parchment

½ small red onion, thinly sliced

into half moons (about ½ cup)

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Parchment paper or aluminum

foil

1 pound albacore loin, cut into

4 steaks

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

I learned how to make a version of the mint-pistachio pesto from watching a Martha Stewart show, and it has become part of my regular rotation: tossed into pasta salads, served alongside grilled fish, or conveyed to my mouth by any means necessary—it’s that good. Next time you go car camping, make this recipe in foil parcels. Keep them on ice until you get to your destination, then grill them for 8 minutes over a strong fire.

SERVES 4

Preheat the oven to 350ºF.

To prepare the pesto, spread the pistachios out on a baking sheet and add the almonds at the far end. Toast in the oven for 4 minutes, then check to see if the pistachios are lightly brown. If not, roast them for another minute or two. The almonds will take longer, 6 to 8 minutes total. Leave the oven on.

When the nuts are toasted, transfer them to the bowl of a food processor, along with the olive oil, red pepper flakes, and mint. Pulse into a chunky or smooth pesto: your choice. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and set aside.

To prepare the tuna, heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and then the onions. Add a pinch of salt and sauté for about 5 minutes, or until the onions are lightly browned. Divide into 4 equal portions and set aside.

Increase the oven temperature to 450ºF.

Cut four 18-inch lengths of parchment paper (or you can make this in foil parcels, crinkling the edges to keep the liquids in—parchment is recommended purely because it makes for a lovely presentation when served). Fold each piece of parchment in half and trace a large, fat half-heart shape on each one. Cut out the shapes.

Open the parchment papers and brush one side of each heart lightly with olive oil. Lay a tuna steak on each oiled section and top with a little sprinkling of salt and pepper, followed by 2 tablespoons of mint-pistachio pesto, ¼ cup of the cherry tomatoes, and a quarter of the sautéed red onions. Fold the other half of the parchment over the fish and, starting at the top of the paper, make a small fold to crease the 2 sides together. Locate the midpoint of your fold and make another fold that starts there. Repeat, continuing around the whole outer edge of the paper. When you get to the end, tuck what’s left securely under the parcel. The idea is to trap the steam, so look at all your creases and make sure no steam can escape. Place the parchment parcels on a baking sheet, and, for medium-rare albacore, cook for 8 minutes for each inch of tuna (measured at its thickest point).

To serve, place one parcel on each plate and let your guests open them at the table. (Scissors or knives may be needed for parchment parcels; foil is easy to open without.)

PAIRING: An albariño, such as Burgans 2009, Rías Baixas, Spain, or a grüner veltliner.

olive-oil-poached albacore steaks with caper–blood orange sauce

2 cups plus 1 tablespoon extra-

virgin olive oil

1 pound albacore loin, cut into

four 1-inch steaks

2 blood or navel oranges

½ small red onion, thinly sliced

into half moons (about ½ cup)

Pinch of salt

1 teaspoon minced fresh

rosemary

⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons dry white

vermouth or dry white wine

¼ cup mild green olives (such

as Castelvetrano), pitted and

sliced into thin strips

1½ tablespoons chopped

capers

¼ cup chopped fresh Italian

parsley

¼ cup shelled pistachios,