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garnish

2 cups arugula

I think one reason people shy away from oil-poached anything is that they probably have an evolutionarily hard-wired fear of that much hot oil. It’s probably a self-protection thing, but let me gently walk you through a decidedly safe preparation. The oil never gets very hot in this recipe—precisely why the tuna ends up moist and succulent. Another reason people shy away from oil poaching is because they think they need to throw away the oil when they are done. Not true! Strain it, refrigerate it, and use it for cooking. It will keep for months in the refrigerator. Now that I’ve soothed your fears, proceed gaily forward into a world of meltingly tender tuna with fruity and piquant olives, blood oranges, and a wisp of chile-induced heat, felt just for a moment at the back of the throat, to remind you that you’re still very much alive.

SERVES 4

In a medium, deep saucepot, heat 2 cups of the olive oil over medium-low heat until it registers 230ºF on a deep-fat thermometer. Add the tuna steaks, two at a time, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes (don’t adjust the heat—it’s OK if the temperature drops): 3 minutes for rare, 4 minutes for medium rare, 5 minutes for medium (I recommend rare or medium rare). When the first 2 steaks are done, remove them from the oil with tongs and transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate. Return the oil to 230ºF and cook the other steaks. Reserve and set aside the poaching oil while you prepare the sauce.

Zest the blood oranges to yield ½ teaspoon zest. Then juice the oranges to yield ¼ cup juice, and cut the remaining flesh into small dice to yield ½ cup.

In a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the red onions and salt. Sauté for 6 to 7 minutes, or until the onions are soft, then add the blood orange juice and zest, rosemary, red pepper flakes, red wine vinegar, vermouth, olives, and capers, and sauté for another minute or so. Add the parsley and blood orange pieces, stir well, and taste for seasoning. Keep warm.

Toast the pistachios in a small skillet over high heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

To serve, place some arugula on each of 4 plates. Drizzle a few teaspoons of the reserved poaching oil over the arugula and sprinkle with a touch of salt. Top with an albacore steak (sliced, if desired) and spoon the caper–blood orange sauce over the top. Garnish with the toasted pistachios.

PAIRING: An Oregon pinot gris, such as Elk Cove 2008, Willamette Valley, or a Torrontés.

seared albacore with ratatouille and caramelized figs

For the ratatouille:

3 teaspoons extra-virgin

olive oil, plus additional for

sautéing

3 teaspoons high-heat

vegetable oil, plus additional-

for sautéing

1 small eggplant, cut into

small dice

Salt

1 medium zucchini, cut into

small dice

1 red pepper, cut into small

dice

1 medium Walla Walla onion,

cut into half moons

1 teaspoon minced fresh

thyme

1 teaspoon minced fresh

parsley

1 teaspoon minced fresh

oregano

1 teaspoon minced fresh

rosemary

Freshly ground pepper

For the tuna:

1 pound albacore loin, cut

into four 1-inch steaks

Salt and freshly ground

pepper

2 tablespoons high-heat

vegetable oil

6 fresh figs, halved

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

For the red-wine-and-balsamic sauce:

1 cup dry red wine

½ cup clam juice or chicken

stock

3 tablespoons balsamic

vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper

August is a time of such intense, overflowing bounty that we are literally buried in produce. In times of extreme fecundity, I make recipes that include, at the minimum, 56,782 pounds of produce. This seems to be the best strategy to stay ahead of nature. Some people make gazpacho; I make ratatouille. Caramelize some fresh figs and serve with a medium-rare albacore steak, ratatouille, and a red-wine-and-balsamic reduction and you only have 56,781 pounds of produce left to eat.

SERVES 4

To prepare the ratatouille, heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 1 teaspoon each of the olive