Good Fish_ Sustainable Seafood Recipes From the Pacific Coast - Becky Selengut [74]
PAIRING: A sparkling rosé, such as Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace Brut NV, Alsace, France, or a sauvignon blanc.
squid
Squid is one of those galvanizing types of seafood. It has its share of lovers and haters, and for the most part, the hater camp is stocked with the poor folks who’ve had to chew through overcooked squid better served as projectile weapons. The lovers—myself included—have tasted the divinity found in a piece of grilled or wok-seared squid that has been removed from the flame with the urgency and focus one would employ if their own hand was on fire. Like many, I stumbled through several years wondering why these rubbery rings were worthy of menu real estate until a trip to Italy where, at the famous restaurant Guido da Costigliole, a Michelin one-star restaurant in Piedmont, I was served a bowl of squid that changed my perspective forever. I can only guess at its preparation, but it seemed to be poached in butter that had been flavored with fresh bay leaves. It was insanely good. The squid was so surprisingly tender. I heard my teeth meet with too much force, so prepared was my mouth to do battle. I went back to the same restaurant the next night. I ordered the exact same dish.
WHAT MAKES THIS A GOOD CHOICE: Squid grow quickly and are, generally speaking, caught toward the end of their short life cycle (about six months to a year). Good management of this fishery is crucial because squid are a very important link in the food chain. Like sardines and anchovies, they are food for sea lions, salmon, dolphins, whales, and seabirds. Currently, most of the Pacific Coast squid is coming from California. The California Department of Fish and Game manages this fishery consistent with a federal fishery management plan. The state regulates catch limitations, time and seasonal closures, monitoring programs, and a permit system.
BY ANY OTHER NAME: California squid (Loligo opalescens) are also called market squid, California market squid, Monterey squid, or opalescent inshore squid. Squid is called ika in sushi bars, but it is often not squid at all, but rather Vietnamese cuttlefish harvested from unregulated fisheries. This practice can negatively impact other organisms that depend on the cuttlefish as an important food source. Squid is also called calamari in Italian, a name that has become synonymous with “squid” in the English language.
SEASON: There are two squid fisheries in California: the summer Monterey Bay fishery and the fall and winter fishery in Southern California. You can pretty much say squid are available year-round. You can also find frozen squid from California year-round, though an estimated 90 percent gets exported (and, ironically, sold back to us as frozen calamari from China).
BUYING TIPS: Squid are sold fresh both whole and cleaned (separated into tubes and tentacles), as well as frozen (whole and cleaned).
QUESTIONS TO ASK BEFORE YOU PULL OUT YOUR WALLET: Where was it caught? Try to buy domestic Pacific Coast squid.
CARING FOR YOUR GOOD FISH: When I get any squid home that I’m not able to use that night, I take it out of its packaging, pat it dry with paper towels, rewrap it in plastic wrap, put it in a drip pan (a perforated pan or a colander over a bowl), and throw some ice on top before storing it in the refrigerator. This ensures that the squid is optimally chilled to preserve freshness and is ready to cook the next day. Thaw frozen squid according to How to Safely Thaw Frozen Fish on page xxvii.
HOW THIS TYPE OF SEAFOOD IS RAISED OR HARVESTED: Market squid are caught at night by purse seining. Boats shine bright lights to attract massive numbers of squid from their spawning grounds. Small boats then harvest the squid by drawing the net around them and pulling it up.
SUSTAINABLE SUBSTITUTES: I substitute spot prawns or scallops for squid when necessary.
quick squid with red chile sauce