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1 pound cleaned squid, tubes

cut into rings and tentacles

cut in half lengthwise

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed

lime juice (about ½ lime)

2 green onions, minced

Pinch of salt

Heaping ¼ teaspoon freshly

ground pepper

1 head butter lettuce, washed

and dried, whole leaves

picked off the stem

2 cups fresh cilantro leaves

1 cup fresh Thai or regular basil

leaves

1 carrot, grated or cut into

fine julienne, or 1 cup bean

sprouts

1 cup Thai sweet chile sauce,60

such as Mae Ploy brand

1 tablespoon high-heat

vegetable oil

This is the recipe to make for people who are convinced that healthy food can’t be made quickly and inexpensively. In no time, the table will be overflowing with fresh herbs, lettuce, and quickly seared salty-sour squid. You can tell your guests to place all the ingredients in a piece of lettuce before dipping into the sweet chile sauce or, alternatively, make themselves a salad and use the sauce as dressing.

SERVES 4 FOR LUNCH OR AS AN APPETIZER

In a large bowl, combine the squid with the fish sauce, lime juice, green onions, salt, and pepper. Set aside while you heat a wok or large sauté pan over high heat. Decoratively assemble the lettuce, cilantro, Thai basil, carrots, and a bowl of chile sauce on a large platter.

Add the vegetable oil to the wok over high heat and, when it is hot, add the squid. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes only, just until the squid ring edges curl up a bit and turn white. Transfer the squid to a bowl, leaving the liquid in the wok. Reduce the liquid down to a thick glaze (making sure to add any juices that accumulate at the bottom of the bowl the squid is resting in), about 5 minutes. Pour the glaze back over the squid and serve it on the platter with the accompaniments.

PAIRING: A riesling, such as Navarro Vineyards 2008, Mendocino, California, or a gewürztraminer.

wok-seared squid with lemongrass, chile, and basil

1 stalk lemongrass

2 tablespoons high-heat

vegetable oil

1 pound cleaned squid, tubes

cut into rings and tentacles

cut in half lengthwise, or

whole squid,61 cleaned and

cut

½ small red onion, cut into

thin half moons

1 tablespoon grated fresh

ginger

½ cup medium-diced red bell

pepper

1 tablespoon Thai roasted

red chile paste (I like Thai

Kitchen’s brand)

¼ cup clam juice

½ cup roughly torn fresh basil

leaves

1 teaspoon fish sauce, plus

additional for seasoning

2 medium limes, one juiced,

the other cut into wedges

for garnish

Cooked rice noodles or rice,

for serving

Stir-frying is high-heat cooking from start to finish. It is extra important to have all your ingredients ready before you turn on the heat (what the French call mise en place). Be prepared for some active stirring, as the squid is in and out of the hot wok very quickly. By the time the heady scent of the lemongrass has reached your nostrils, the squid is probably done. Feel free to serve the lemongrass pieces in each person’s bowl: just be sure to tell your diners not to eat them outright, unless they are really into a high-fiber diet. Add a little kick by including thinly sliced jalapeños when stir-frying the vegetables.

SERVES 4 FOR LUNCH OR AS A LIGHT DINNER

Prepare the lemongrass by cutting off the top half of the stalk (where it is thinner and darker); discard this. Trim the very bottom and discard, then cut the stalk into 1-inch lengths. Smack each piece of lemongrass with the side of a knife to help it release its flavor into the dish.

Heat a wok or large sauté pan over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil to the wok, along with the lemongrass. Cook for 1 minute, or until the lemongrass just starts to brown. Add the squid and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or just until the squid ring edges curl up a bit and turn white. Transfer the squid and lemongrass, along with any juices, to a large bowl and reserve. Wipe the wok clean with a paper towel.

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the wok (still at high heat), along with the onions, ginger, bell pepper, and chile paste. Pick the