Greece - Korina Miller [115]
ACHAÏA ΑΧΑΪΑ
Overseas visitors are slowly discovering the delights of Achaïa. The spectacular region hides a string of coastal resorts, some high and ski-able mountain country (reached via a fantastic rack-and-pinion railway) and a burgeoning capital: the bustling, cosmopolitan city of Patra.
Achaïa owes its name to the Achaeans, an Indo-European branch of migrants who settled on mainland Greece and established what is more commonly known as the Mycenaean civilisation. When the Dorians arrived, the Achaeans were pushed into this northwestern corner of the Peloponnese, displacing the original Ionians.
Legend has it that the Achaeans founded 12 cities, which later developed into the powerful Achaean Federation that survived until Roman times. Principal among these cities were the ports of Patra and Egio (on the coast of the Gulf of Corinth).
Return to beginning of chapter
PATRA ΠAΤΡΑ
pop 167,600
The largest city in the Peloponnese and Achaïa’s capital, Patra is named after King Patreas, who ruled Achaïa around 1100 BC. Despite an eventful 3000 years of history, Patra is often dismissed by travellers; many pass straight through, boarding or disembarking from boats that sail between here, Italy and the Ionian Islands.
Yet those who do stay a night or two will find a cosmopolitan city with a vibrant cafe and clubbing scene (helped by the presence of Patra’s 40,000 university students), some interesting sites, good shopping, and a busy arts and culture community.
At first sight, Patra is not beautiful – the cityscape is dominated by a large port, bland 1950s concrete tenements that squat between the few surviving 19th-century neoclassical buildings and traffic-snarled streets. But the city also has attractive squares and architectural landmarks, such as the Apollon Theatre, plus the impressive, shiny Rio–Andirio suspension bridge, linking the city with western continental Greece.
Orientation
Rebuilt with wide, arcaded streets and large squares after its destruction by the Turks during the War of Independence, Patra has a simple modern grid system. The waterfront is known as Iroön Polytehniou at the north end, Othonos Amalias in the middle and Akti Dimeon to the south. The bus and train stations and agencies selling ferry tickets are on Iroön Polytehniou and Othonos Amalias. The main pedestrian thoroughfare is Agiou Nikolaou and the principle square is Plateia Georgiou.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Newstand ( 2610 273 092; Agiou Andreou 77) A small selection of novels, as well as international newspapers and magazines.
EMERGENCY
First Aid Centre ( 2610 277 386; cnr Karolou & Agiou Dionysiou; 8am-8pm)
Tourist police ( 2610 695 191; 4th fl, Gounari 52, cnr Ypsilandou; 7.30am-9pm)
INTERNET ACCESS
Info Center ( 2610 461 740/1; www.infocenterpatras.gr; Othonos Amalias 6; per 20min free; 8am-10pm)
Netp@rk (Gerokostopoulou 36a; per hr €2; 24hr)
Plazanet@Internet (Gerokostopoulou 28; per hr €2.10; 9am-midnight)
INTERNET RESOURCES
www.infocenterpatras.gr An excellent website for information on the city.
* * *
MYTHOLOGY MADE PELOPONNEASY
If you are interested in treading the real landscape of Greek mythology, the Peloponnese is home to a great many of its fabled places.
It takes some getting used to seeing so many road signs to places of legend, such as Mycenae, Tiryns and Nestor’s Palace; homes to Homer’s heroes and villains in the ‘Iliad’, and places of real historical as well as mythological interest.
If you want to find the entrance to the Underworld, try exploring along the Styx River in northeastern Arkadia, known to modern Greeks as the Mavroneri River. Or perhaps you’d prefer to see Aphrodite’s birthplace, off a magnificent spot on the remote island of Kythira.
Even the territory itself is named after a mythical figure – Pelops – who, according to legend, became king of Elia after sneakily defeating the previous king Oimanaos in a chariot race (by nobbling his chariot wheels) and to whom subsequent rulers from the area were desperate to prove a blood line.
Gods