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By Root 1276 0

and demigods sported here, too, including Pan, who sexually harassed nymphs in bucolic Arkadia, and Hercules, who worked as a kind of supernatural pest controller, ridding the country around Argos of the many-headed Hydra and strangling the fearsome Nemean Lion at Nemea. According to the ancient Greek writer Plutarch, even Zeus himself celebrated here, after beating his father Cronos at wrestling, by holding the first ever Olympics at Ancient Olympia.

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LAUNDRY

Skafi Laundrette ( 2610 620 119; Zaïmi 49; per load €8; 9am-2.30pm Mon-Sat, 5.30-8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri) Will wash and dry a load.

LEFT LUGGAGE

Train station (per 8hr €2, per 24hr €3; 5am-3am) Has large lockers.

MONEY

National Bank of Greece (Plateia Trion Symachon; 8am-2.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-2pm Fri) Opposite the train station.

POST

Post office (cnr Zaïmi & Mezonos; 7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat & Sun)

TOURIST INFORMATION

Info Center ( 2610 461 740/1; www.infocenterpatras.gr; Othonos Amalias 6; 8am-10pm) This is one of the best-organised information offices in Greece, run by the city of Patra (rather than the EOT; Greek National Tourist Organisation). It’s stocked with maps, lists and brochures on local sites plus information on everything, including transport and hotels. The delightful English-speaking staff is eager to please. There’s even free 20-minute internet access and free bike hire.

Sights & Activities

The city’s wonderful old kastro (fortress; admission free; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) stands on the site of the acropolis of ancient Patrai. The Romans were the first to build a fort here around AD 550, but the present structure is of Frankish origin, remodelled many times over the centuries by the Byzantines, Venetians and Turks. It was in use as a defensive position until WWII. Set in an attractive pencil-pine park, it is reached by climbing the 190-plus steps at the southeastern end of Agiou Nikolaou. Great views of the Ionian islands of Zakynthos and Kefallonia are the reward.

The long-awaited, space-aged Archaeological Museum of Patras ( 2610 220 829; cnr Amerikis & Patras-Athens National Rd; admission free; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) opened in July 2009. Its shiny metallic domes and contemporary buildings make up the country’s second-largest museum. Its collections – across three themed halls – feature objects from prehistoric to Roman times (including extraordinary mosaics, sarcophagi and jewellery) from Patra and surrounds; many pieces haven’t been exhibited for decades. The museum also includes a particulaly significant collection of Mycenaean swords. At the time of research, the entrance was free, but there are plans to introduce admission fees in 2010.

Seating 5500 people, the Church of Agios Andreas (Agiou Andreou) is one of the largest in the Balkans. It houses religious icons and paintings, plus St Andreas’ skull, along with part of the cross he was crucified on.

The hammam (Turkish baths; 2610 274 267; Boukaouri 29; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat) is a privately run venture, but you can scrub up here as the Turks (AD 1500) did before you.

Festivals & Events

Patra’s citizens party hard during the annual Patras Carnival (www.carnivalpatras.gr). This program (whose dates change annually) features a host of minor events leading up to a wild weekend of costume parades, colourful floats and celebrations in late February or early March. The event draws big crowds, so hotel reservations are essential if you want to stay overnight.

The Patras International Festival (www.infocenterpatras.gr) runs from June to September and features a range of music and other acts with visiting international performers.

Sleeping

There are a couple of budget choices, but stretching yourself to a slightly higher budget pays dividends with a few plush choices.

BUDGET

Rio Camping ( 2610 991 585; camp sites per person/tent/car €6/6/4) The nearest camping ground is several kilometres north at the popular Rio Beach. Bus 6 leaves every hour from outside the train station.

Nikos Pension ( 2610 623 757; cnr Patreos & Agiou Andreou; s/d with shared bathroom