Greece - Korina Miller [125]
During Roman times, when Corinthians weren’t clinching business deals, they were paying homage to the goddess of love, Aphrodite, in a temple dedicated to her (which meant partying with the temple’s sacred prostitutes, both male and female). St Paul – perturbed by the Corinthians’ wicked ways – spent 18 mostly fruitless months preaching here.
Sights
ANCIENT CORINTH
The ruins ( 27410 31207; site & museum adult/concession €6/3; 8am-8pm Apr-Oct, 8am-3pm Nov-Mar) lie right in the centre of the modern village. Thanks to the area’s compact size (although excavations are ongoing), and the excellent signs in English, complete with diagrams, a visit here is enjoyable and fascinating.
The remains are mostly from Roman times. An exception is the prominent 5th-century-BC Doric Temple of Apollo. To the south of this temple is a huge agora (forum) bounded on its southern side by the foundations of a stoa (long colonnaded building). This was built to accommodate the bigwigs summoned here in 337 BC by Philip II to sign oaths of allegiance to Macedon. In the middle of the central row of shops is a bema, a marble podium from which Roman officials addressed the people.
At the eastern end of the agora are the remains of the Julian Basilica. To the north is the Lower Peirene fountain – the Upper Peirene fountain is on Acrocorinth. According to mythology, Peirene wept so much when her son Kenchrias was killed by Artemis that the gods, rather than let all the precious water go to waste, turned her into a fountain (actually, it’s a spring). The water tanks, or cisterns, are concealed in a fountain house with a six-arched facade.
West of the fountain, steps lead to the Lecheon road, once the main thoroughfare to the port of Lecheon. On the east side of the road is the Peribolos of Apollo, a courtyard flanked by Ionic columns, some of which have been restored. Nearby is a public latrine, where some seats remain.
South of the museum is Temple E (also known as Temple of Octavia; Pausanias describes it as being dedicated to Octavia, sister of Augustus). Several columns remain.
The site’s museum has three main rooms: the first two exhibit fine Greek and Roman statues, mosaics, figurines, reliefs and friezes. The third room, the museum’s latest addition, houses the finds of excavations at the nearby Sanctuary of Asklepios, a temple from the 5th century BC. Some interesting pieces include grave markers and votive genitalia from the 4th century BC.
Opposite the site entrance is the ancient theatre, constructed in the 5th century BC for up to 15,000 specatators, and altered various times, and the odeion (indoor theatre), a Roman construction from the 1st century AD. You view both sites from the road.
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THE WINE ROAD
The Nemea region, in the rolling hills southwest of Corinth, is one of Greece’s premier wine-producing areas, famous for its full-bodied reds, produced from the local agiorgitiko grape. Look out also for wine made from roditis, a local variety of white grape.
Nemea has been known for its fine wines since Mycenaean times, when nearby Phlius supplied the wine for the royal court at Mycenae. Until recent times production took place behind closed doors, but growers are waking up to the tourist potential of winery tours and tastings and are marketing their wine region. About half a dozen wineries provide tastings for visitors (usually free, some by appointment). They include Skouras ( 27510 23688; www.skouraswines.com; 9am-3pm) northwest of Argos, Ktima Palivou ( 27460 24190; www.palivos.gr; 10am-6pm) in Ancient Nemea (with a good selection of Cabernet Sauvignon) and Lafkioti ( 27460 31244; www.lafkiotis.gr; 11am-3pm) in Ancient Kleonai, 3km east of Ancient Nemea.
North of Nemea and further up into some pretty hill country you’ll find Gaia Wines ( 21080 55642/3, 27460 22057; www.gaia-wines.gr; Koutsi; tastings 9am-4pm), which produces unfiltered wines ranging from inexpensive vins de pays to pricier appellation d’origine control