Greece - Korina Miller [126]
A bit further along the road is the dramatically located Domaine Helios ( 27460 20360; www.semeliwines.com), which produces various varieties of reds, whites and a rosé.
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ACROCORINTH
The sheer bulk of limestone known as Acrocorinth (admission free; 8am-3pm) was one of the finest natural fortifications in ancient Greece and it remains an impressive ruin to this day, commanding wonderful views over the surrounding region.
The original fortress was built in ancient times, but it has been modified many times over the years by a string of invaders. The ruins are a medley of imposing Roman, Byzantine, Frankish, Venetian and Turkish ramparts, harbouring remains of Byzantine chapels, Turkish houses and mosques.
On the higher of Acrocorinth’s two summits is the Temple of Aphrodite where the sacred courtesans (exactly how these differed from the less holy variety isn’t clear), who so raised the ire of St Paul, catered to the desires of the insatiable Corinthians. Little remains of the temple, but the views are tremendous.
It’s a bit of a (do-able) 4km uphill hike to the fortress and there’s no bus. If you’re lucky, you can grab a lift or take a village taxi.
Sleeping & Eating
There are several places in the village advertising rooms to rent.
Rooms to Rent Tasos ( 27410 31225; s/d €30/45, tr €55-60; ) In the village centre, on the road into town from Corinth, and above Taverna O Tasos, are these basic, but clean and convenient, rooms.
Marinos Rooms ( 27410 31209; fax 27410 31994; s/d/tr incl breakfast €45/60/75; ) The 1980s-style glass facade glosses over any flaws of this slightly overpriced place, but it has simple rooms and a pretty and shady garden. Also operates an on-site taverna in summer, and gets booked out in June with archaeology students.
Taverna Dionysos ( 27410 31579; mains €8-15) This is the pick of the tavernas in town, as much for its more upmarket decor as for its freshly cooked fare. In high season, however, it brings out the more familiar Greek favourites.
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CORINTH CANAL
ΔΙΩΡΥΓΑ ΤΗΣ ΚΟΡΙΝΘΟΥ
The concept of cutting a canal through the Corinth Isthmus to link the Ionian and Aegean Seas was first proposed by Periander, tyrant of Ancient Corinth at the end of the 7th century BC. The magnitude of the task defeated him, so he opted instead to build a diolkos (paved slipway) across which sailors dragged small ships on rollers, a method used until the 13th century.
In the intervening years many leaders, including Alexander the Great and Caligula, toyed with the canal idea, but it was Nero who actually began digging in AD 67. In true megalomaniac fashion, he struck the first blow himself, using a golden pickaxe. He then left it to 6000 Jewish prisoners to do the hard work. The project was soon halted by invasions by the Gauls. It was not until the 19th century (1883–93) that a French engineering company completed the canal.
The Corinth Canal, cut through solid rock, is over 6km long and 23m wide. The vertical sides rise 90m above the water. The canal did much to elevate Piraeus’ status as a major Mediterranean port. It’s an impressive sight, particularly when a ship is passing through. Corinth-based Periandros offers cruises through the canal.
Getting There & Away
The easiest way to get to the canal is by the Loutraki bus from modern Corinth to the canal bridge. Any bus or train between Corinth and Athens will pass over the bridge.
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ISTHMIA/KYRAS VRYSI
ΙΣΘΜIΑ/ΚΥΡΑΣ ΒΡΥΣΗ
Near the village of modern Isthmia and 8km east of Corinth at the southeastern end of the Corinth Canal is the present-day village of Kyras Vrysi. It was formerly the site of the biennial Isthmian Games – one of four events that made up the Panhellenic Games circuit along with the games at Delphi, Nemea and Olympia.
The first recorded games at Isthmia were staged in 582 BC, organised by the city of Corinth in honour of Poseidon, god of the sea, who had long been associated with the site. Corinth continued to host the games until its destruction