Greece - Korina Miller [127]
The Isthmia Museum and (archaelogical) site ( 27410 37244; admission free; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) are located in Kyras Vrysi. The site and museum were closed for renovation at the time of research.
Another reason to visit Isthmia is for its submersible bridge, one of two crossing the canal (the other is near Loutraki). You can cross this wooden and metal bridge in a car or on foot. It gives an excellent perspective of the canal plus, if you’re lucky enough to see a ship pass over the submerged bridge, the canal banks near the bridge are great viewing points.
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ANCIENT NEMEA ΑΡΧΑΙΑ ΝΕΜΕΑ
Lying on the northeastern edge of modern Nemea, Ancient Nemea ( 27460 22739; site, museum & stadium adult/concession €4/2, site & museum adult/concession €3/2; museum 8.30am-3pm, museum closed Mon morning) is 31km southwest of Corinth. According to mythology it was around here that Hercules carried out the first of his labours – the slaying of the lion that had been sent by Hera to destroy Nemea. The lion became the constellation Leo (each of the 12 labours is related to a sign of the zodiac).
Like Olympia, Nemea was not a city but a sanctuary and venue for the biennial Nemean Games, held in honour of Zeus. These games were hosted by the nearby city of Kleonai, and they became one of the great Panhellenic festivals. Three original columns of the 4th-century-BC Doric Temple of Zeus survive, and have been joined by two more columns reassembled by an American team. Other ruins include a bathhouse, probably used by athletes to oil up pre-competition, and a hostelry.
The site’s museum has two models of the ancient site – the first shows what it would have looked like in 573 BC, the second in AD 500 – and explanations in English. The jewel, literally, is the collection of Gold of Aidonia, exquisite gold rings, seals and beads from the site of Aidonia, near Nemea.
The stadium ( 27460 22739; stadium only adult/concession €2/1; 8.30am-3pm) is 500m back along the road, and was once connected to the sanctuary by a sacred road. The athletes’ starting line is still in place, together with the distance markers. Look out for ancient ‘graffiti’ in the tunnel used by athletes (note: the tunnel is slightly hidden).
Getting There & Away
Buses from Corinth (€4.80, one hour, six daily) will stop outside the site on the way to modern Nemea, a busy agricultural service town about 4km northwest of the site. There are also buses to Nemea from Argos (€3, one hour, two weekly on Monday and Thursday; note – schedule changes).
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ARGOLIS ΑΡΓΟΛIΔΑ
The Argolis Peninsula, which separates the Saronic and Argolic Gulfs, is a veritable treasure trove for archaeology buffs, history lovers and those after a fascinating frolic. The town of Argos, from which the region takes its name, is thought to be the longest continually inhabited town in Greece. Argolis was the seat of power of the Mycenaean empire that ruled Greece from 1600 to 1100 BC. Its citadels, Mycenae and Tiryns, are two of the region’s major attractions, along with the famous Theatre of Epidavros. The delightful old Venetian town of Nafplio makes a perfect base from which to explore.
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ARGOS ΑΡΓΟΣ
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The ancient town of Argos stretches back an astonishing 6000 years. Today most vestiges of its past glory lie buried beneath the existing modern town. Argos is overshadowed by its nearest neighbour, Nafplio; Argos itself is mainly used by visitors as a transport hub for buses.
However, it’s an extremely pleasant, bustling town; it’s worth stopping for a quick look at the town’s museum, as well as the ruins and fortress out of town. If you’re really penny pinching, this is a far less expensive option than Nafplio from which to explore the region.
Orientation & Information
Argos’ showpiece and focal point is its grand central square, Plateia Agiou Petrou, with its art-nouveau street lights, citrus and palm trees, and the impressive Church of Agios Petros. Beyond, Argos deteriorates into