Greece - Korina Miller [128]
The main bus station, KTEL, is just south of the central square on Kapodistriou, while the train station is on the southeastern edge of town by the road to Nafplio.
An Alpha Bank is on the central square. There is no tourist office or tourist police.
Netp@rk (Mistakopoulou 1; per hr €2) Travellers can check email here.
Police ( 100) If you need them, this is the regular police.
Post office ( 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Clearly signposted on Kapodistriou, southeast of the central square, Plateia Agiou Petrou.
Sights
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF ARGOS
The archaeological museum ( 27510 68819; Plateia Agiou Petrou; adult/concession €2/1; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), on the edge of the central square spans three floors and includes a pretty garden. The collection includes some outstanding and complete Roman mosaics and sculptures, and bronze objects from the Mycenaean tombs. Highlights include the statuette of a goddess, the mosaic of the four seasons in the courtyard, a suit of 8th-century-BC bronze armour, and some fine Neolithic, Mycenaean and Geometric pottery; including some outstanding Argive grey and brown vases dating to before 1600 BC.
ROMAN RUINS & FORTRESS OF LARISSA
Impressive Roman ruins (admission free; 8.30am-3pm) straddle both sides of a road (Tripolis). To get there from the central square, head south along Danaou for about 500m and then turn right onto Theatrou, which joins the road (Tripolis) opposite the star attraction: the enormous theatre, which could seat up to 20,000 people (more than at Epidavros). It dates from Classical times but was greatly modified by the Romans. Nearby are the remains of a 1st-century-AD odeion and Roman baths. Opposite is the Ancient Agora. The complex has been given a new lease of life – signage now provides clear diagrams and contextualises the setting.
It is a 45-minute hard slog by footpath from the theatre up to the Fortress of Larissa, which is a conglomeration of Byzantine, Frankish, Venetian and Turkish architecture, standing on the foundations of the city’s principal ancient citadel. There is also a road to the top of the fortress, signposted from the centre of town.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Apollon ( 27510 68065; www.argolidaonline.gr/apollon-hotel, in Greek; Papaflessa 13; s/d/tr €30/40/55; ) The best budget choice, tucked away on a quiet side street behind the central square. Although basic, the rooms come with TV.
Hotel Mycenae ( 27510 68332; mycenae@otenet.gr; Plateia Agiou Petrou 10; s/d incl breakfast €30/60; ) Situated on the central square, the 1970s-style Hotel Mycenae has large, comfortable, pastel-coloured rooms. ‘Student’ rates and rooms available.
Hotel Morfeas ( 27510 68317; www.hotel-morfeas.gr; Danaou 2, cnr Plateia Agiou Petrou; s incl breakfast €45, d incl breakfast €50-70; ) Smart, if ever so slightly tired, Morfeas provides a few little toiletries and other trimmings, especially for business visitors.
Argos is in the midst of experiencing an explosion of cool cafes around the main square and beyond. Restaurant Aigli ( 27510 67266; Plateia Agiou Petrou 6; mains €6-11) is a more traditional experience, offering mezedhes (appetisers), burgers and traditional meals. With outdoor seating opposite the church in the central square, this is perfect for people-watching.
There are several supermarkets around the town centre or try to catch the Wednesday or Saturday market on Tsokri.
Getting There & Around
BUS
Just south of the central square, KTEL Argolis ( 27510 67324; Kapodistriou 8) has bus services to Nafplio (€1.40, 30 minutes, half-hourly), Mycenae (€1.50, 30 minutes, three daily) and Nemea (€3, one hour, two weekly on Monday and Thursday).
There are also bus services to Athens between 5.30am and 8.30pm (€11, two hours, six daily) via Corinth Canal (€4.70, 50 minutes), and to Tripoli (€5, one hour, four daily except Sunday).
Services south to Astros (€2.70, one hour) and Leonidio (€7, 2¼ hours) are operated by KTEL Arkadia. Ask at the cafe Sweet Corner ( 27510 23162; Theatrou 40). There are three services a day (Sunday,