Greece - Korina Miller [134]
Hotel Ilion ( 27520 25114; www.ilionhotel.gr; Kapodistriou 4; d incl breakfast €90-180) In-your-face elaborate rococco-style decor with your very own frescoes and fiddly bits.
TOP END
Ippoliti ( 27520 96088; www.ippoliti.gr; Miniati; r €120-180; ) The 19 rooms in this new and discretely luxurious place are decked out in tasteful muted Tuscan furnishings with neoclassical touches. There are even glass-screened fireplaces in the rooms (extra cost). It has the feel of a boutique pension with hotel services, including a gym.
Hotel Grande Bretagne ( 27520 96200; www.grandebretagne.com.gr; Plateia Filellinon; s/d incl breakfast €130/180; ) Nafplion elegance – this is a plush, traditionally styled period hotel and right in the heart of the waterfront cafe action.
Nafplia Palace ( 27520 70800; www.nafplionhotels.gr; Akronafplia; d/bungalows/villas from €390/580/1300; ) This provides the ultimate take-no-prisoners luxury stakes. It offers ultramodern, uberchic villas, with personal butlers, hi-tech audiovisuals and mini swimming pools.
Eating
Surprisingly, although full of reasonable eateries, Nafplio won’t blow your culinary mind. The streets of the old town are filled with dozens of restaurants, all serving hearty taverna fare. The tourist eateries along Staïkopoulou offer some authentic and reasonably priced taverna dishes for lunch and dinner, but the alleyways hide some excellent surprises.
Mezedopoleio O Noulis ( 27520 25541; Moutzouridou 22; mezedhes €3-10; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr, 10am-3pm & 7-11pm May-Sep) This modest place serves a faultlessly fresh range of mezedhes. The tasting plate of 10 different morsels is a tasty meal in itself (€7.50).
Omorfi Poli ( 27520 29452; Bouboulinas 75; mains €6-16; dinner) This pleasant restaurant’s professional chef whips up Greek and Italian dishes. The mezedhes (€5) have a slight non-Greek twist – there’s mushroom risotto plus Greek favourites including saganaki (grilled cheese) and grilled sardines. Our favourite main is the delicious mousakas (layers of eggplant or zucchini, minced meat and potatoes topped with cheese sauce) baked in its own ceramic dishes (piping hot in every sense, and a steal at €7). Bonuses include the friendly service and good wine list (€17 to €47).
Antica Gelateria di Roma ( 27520 23520; www.anticagelateria.gr; cnr Farmakopoulou & Komninou) ‘Bongiorno – this is an Italian gelati shop!’ announces Italian gelati maestro and maestra Marcello and Claudia Raffo as you enter their premises. That’s just in case you didn’t see and smell (and we’ll bet, soon taste) the smorgasbord of the best (yes, best) traditional gelati outside Italy. And don’t say we didn’t warn you!
Some taverna options also recommended:
Nafplios ( 27520 97999; cnr Bouboubilas & Syngrou; mains €6-11; lunch & dinner) One of the most genuine places around, this unpretentious place overlooks the car park. Hearty dishes – all traditional – are on display in large pans.
Arapakos ( 27520 27675; Bouboulinas 81; mains €7-12, fish per kilogram €30-80; lunch & dinner) If you’re feeling fishy, hook onto this upmarket morsel for quality seafood.
Alaloum ( 27520 29883; Papanikolaou 10; mains €7-13; lunch & dinner) In a lovely spot on a square, and serves up Greek Mediterranean fare.
O Pseiras ( 27520 24117; Porou 5; mains €8-12; dinner Wed-Mon) This no-nonsense taverna will get you out of your comfort zone (it’s in the Prania region, east of town), with reasonable fare and occasional live music (often to accommodate tourist groups).
To Koutouki ( 27520 24477; Olgas 44, mains €8-18; dinner)