Greece - Korina Miller [135]
Self-caterers will find a choice of supermarkets in Nafplio’s new town, including Marinopoulos (cnr Syngrou & Flessa) and Atlantik (Bouboulinas 24).
Drinking
Despite being simply jammed with cafes and bars, there still doesn’t seem to be enough of them in town to hold the throngs of trendy party animals who flock to Nafplio in summer. Most options are on Bouboulinas – just cruise along until you find an image (and the latest decor) to your taste and a musical volume you can handle.
An alternative to the homogenous trendy drinking hole, Lathos (Vasileos Konstantinou 3; 7pm-late Wed-Mon) is a quirky place that’s jam-packed with remote-controlled junkyard automata from moving tables to an arm-clanging cymbal. Depending on his mood, the philosophical owner/DJ plays a haphazard mix of musical beats – perfect for jiving with your surroundings.
Shopping
The alleyways of Nafplio’s old town between Plateia Syntagmatos and the war museum offer boutique-style clothing, jewellery and accessories, plus inevitable tourist paraphernalia. For your daily shopping needs, plus pharmacies and shoe shops (Imelda Marcos, eat your heart out), head to Argous St.
Karonis ( 27520 24446; www.karoniswineshop.gr; Amalias 5) Wine enthusiasts can find a fine selection of wines from all over the country, especially Nemean reds and spirits.
Museum of the Komboloi ( 27520 21618; www.komboloi.gr; Staïkopoulou 25; adult/concession €3/free; 9.30am-9pm Mon-Thu & Sun, to 9.30pm Fri & Sat) This shop – with a private museum above – sells komboloï (worry beads), evil-eye charms and amulets.
The Peloponnese Folklore Foundation Museum houses an attractive gift shop (ground floor), with a range of items, including books, from Greece and around the world.
Getting There & Away
The KTEL Argolis bus station ( 27520 27323; Syngrou 8) has buses to Athens (€12, 2½ hours, hourly) via the Corinth Isthmus (Peloponnese) KTEL bus station (near Corinth; €6, 1½ hours), Argos (€1.40, 30 minutes, half-hourly), Tolo (€1.40, 15 minutes, hourly), Epidavros (€2.60, 45 minutes, four daily), Mycenae (€2.60, one hour, two daily), Kranidi (€7, two hours, four daily except Sunday) and Galatas (€7.40, two hours, two daily Monday to Friday). Other destinations include Tripoli (€6, 1½ hours, two daily Monday to Saturday, one on Sunday). Note: weekend schedules are often reduced.
Getting Around
For taxis call 27520 24120 or head to the rank on Syngrou.
Car-hire agencies include the following:
Avis ( 27520 24160/1; www.carrental-greece.gr; Bouboulinas 51)
Bounos Rent a car ( 27520 24390; www.bounos-carrental.com; Dervenakion 7)
Hermes Car Rental ( 27520 25308; www.hermestravel.gr; Amalias 7)
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TIRYNS ΤΊΡҮΝΘΑ
Situated 4km from Nafplio, just to the east of the Nafplio–Argos road, is the impressive acropolis of Tiryns ( 27520 22657; adult/concession €3/2; 8am-8pm summer, 8am-3pm winter), an important and underrated Mycenaean acropolis and the apogee of Mycenaean architectural achievement, especially its massive walls. In parts, they are 7m thick and, according to mythology, were built by the Cyclops.
Tiryns shares equal billing on the World Heritage list with Mycenae, although Tiryn’s setting is less awe-inspiring. The layout of some of the ruins is easy to make out, and there are few crowds. As yet, the site has no signs or descriptions; it’s worth buying a guidebook, such as Tiryns (by Dr Alkestis Papademetriou; €7) at the ticket office. While further excavations continue, visitors are limited to exploring the Upper and Lower Citadels plus (a more recent opening), a large area where water was stored in ancient times.
Any Nafplio–Argos bus can drop you outside the site.
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EPIDAVROS ΕΠIΔΑΥΡΟΣ
In its day Epidavros ( 27530 22009; adult/concession €6/3; 8am-7.30pm summer, 7.30am-5pm winter), 30km east of Nafplio, was famed and revered as far away as Rome as a place of miraculous healing.