Greece - Korina Miller [138]
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ARKADIA ΑΡΚΑΔIΑ
The picturesque rural prefecture of Arkadia occupies much of the central Peloponnese. Its name evokes images of grassy meadows, forested mountains, gurgling streams and shady grottoes and thankfully, despite the tragic bushfires in 2007, this is largely still the case. It was a favourite haunt of Pan, who played his pipes, guarded herds and frolicked with nymphs in this sunny, bucolic idyll.
Almost encircled by mountain ranges, Arkadia was remote enough in ancient times to remain largely untouched by the battles and intrigues of the rest of Greece, and was the only region of the Peloponnese not conquered by the Dorians. The region – dotted with crumbling medieval villages, remote monasteries and Frankish castles – is popular among outdoor-loving visitors. It also has 100km or so of rugged and unspoilt coastline on the Argolic Gulf, running south from the pretty town of Kiveri to Leonidio.
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TRIPOLI ΤΡΙΠΟΛΗ
pop 25,520
The violent recent history of Arkadia’s capital, Tripoli (tree-po-lee), is in stark contrast with its peaceful rural surroundings. In 1821, during the War of Independence, the town was captured by Kolokotronis and its 10,000 Turkish inhabitants massacred. The Turks retook the town three years later and burnt it to the ground before withdrawing in 1828.
Tripoli itself is not a place where tourists tend to linger, but it’s a major transport hub for the Peloponnese and hard to avoid if you’re relying on public transport.
Orientation
Tripoli can seem a little bit confusing at first. The streets radiate out from the central square, Plateia Vasileos Georgiou, like an erratic spider’s web. The main streets are Washington, which runs south from Plateia Vasileos Georgiou to Kalamata; Ethnikis Andistasis, which runs north from the square and becomes the road to Kalavryta; and Vasileos Georgiou, which runs east from the square to Plateia Kolokotroni. El Venizelou runs east from Plateia Kolokotroni, leading you to the Corinth road.
The KTEL Arkadia bus station is 1km west of Plateia Koloktroni, along the Argos–Corinth road and just beyond an AB Supermarket. The city’s other bus ‘station’ is opposite the train station, about a 10-minute walk away, at the southeastern end of Lagopati, the street that runs behind the KTEL Arkadia bus station.
Information
Tripoli has branches of all the major banks on Plateia Koloktroni and Plateia Vasileos Georgiou.
Memories Lounge Net Café ( 2710 235600; Dareiotou 10; per hr €2; 8am-late)
Police ( 2710 230540; OHE Ave) Out on the western edge of town, between the train station and the KTEL Arkadia bus station.
Post office (cnr D Plapouta & Nikitara; 7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri)
Sights
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
The city’s Archaeological Museum ( 2710 242148; Evangelistrias 2; adult/concession €2/1; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is clearly signposted off Vasileos Georgiou, behind Hotel Alex, and is well worth dropping into. It houses relics from the surrounding ancient sites of Megalopoli, Gortys, Lykosoura, Mantinea and Paliokastro, including some important prehistoric finds, such as Neolithic fertility figures and ornate storage jars, plus sculptures from Herodus Atticus. The little votive offerings from Arkadian shrines in the area are also interesting.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Alex ( 2710 223465; Vasileos Georgiou A26; s/d/tr €50/80/90; ) Centrally positioned, simple, spacious rooms with TV represent good value.
Hotel Anaktoricon ( 2710 222545; www.anaktorikon.gr; Ethnikis Andistasis 48; s/d/tr €80/102/127; ) The pick of places in town for comfort and plush furnishings, this friendly, family-run boutique-style hotel is beyond the town hall.
Kouros ( 2710 223534; Dareiotou 18; mains €5-13; lunch & dinner) Ask locals and they all recommend this tasteful, central taverna. Dishes err on the traditional.
Taverna