Greece - Korina Miller [139]
Getting There & Away
BUS
The KTEL Arkadia bus station ( 2710 222560; Plateia Kolokotroni) is the main bus terminal, 1km west from the city centre. There are 13 buses daily to Athens (€13.50, 2¼ hours) via Corinth Isthmus (€7.30, one hour). There are also two buses daily west to Olympia (€11.10, three hours) and Pyrgos (€12.80, 3½ hours), and three east to Argos (€5, one hour) and Nafplio (€6, 1½ hours). Buses also head to Kalavryta (€9, 2¼ hours, one daily) and Patra (€13, 3½ hours, two daily).
Regional services include buses to Megalopoli (€3, 40 minutes, seven daily) and Stemnitsa (€3.70, one hour, once daily Monday to Friday). There are also two daily services (one on Sunday) to Dimitsana (€5.80, 1½ hours), Andritsena (€7, 1½ hours) via Karitena (€4.70), and Leonidio (€8, 2½ hours).
The bus stop ( 2710 242086) on Lagopati handles departures to Sparta (€4.90, one hour, 10 daily), Kalamata (€7.20, two hours, nine daily, fewer on weekends).
TRAIN
Tripoli lies on the line that runs between Corinth and Kalamata. At the time of research, this line was under repair. Click here for more information.
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MEGALOPOLI ΜΕΓΑΛOΠΟΛΗ
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Despite its name, there’s little left of Megalopoli (Great City) that reflects its former grandeur. It was founded in 371 BC as the capital of a united Arkadia and was nestled in a leafy valley; now the ruins lie near an enormous smoke-spewing power station that’s fuelled by the coal strip–mined surrounding plains.
Despite its magnificent ancient theatre (now closed), the town merely acts as a transport hub on the main route from Tripoli to Kalamata and Pyrgos. The KTEL bus station is one block from the square. There are bus services to Athens (€16.40, three hours, eight daily) via Tripoli (€3, 40 minutes) and Kalamata (€4.40, one hour), as well as to Andritsena (€4.10, 1¼ hours, two daily) via Karitena.
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CENTRAL ARKADIA
The area to the west of Tripoli is a tangle of medieval villages, precipitous ravines and narrow winding roads, woven into valleys of dense vegetation beneath the slopes of the Menalon Mountains. This is the heart of the Arkadia prefecture, and you’ll find it’s an area with some of the most breathtaking scenery in the Peloponnese. The region is high above sea level and nights can be chilly, even in summer. Snow is common in winter.
Your own transport is highly recommended here, but the three most important villages – Karitena, Stemnitsa and Dimitsana – are within reach of Tripoli by public transport.
Karitena Καρταια
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High above the Megalopoli–Andritsena road is the splendid medieval village of Karitena (kar-eet-eh-nah). A stepped path leads from the central square to the 13th-century Frankish castle, perched atop a massive rock. The castle was captured by Greek forces under Kolokotronis early in the War of Independence and became a key stronghold as the war unfolded.
Before the advent of the euro, Karitena was known as the home of the wonderful arched stone bridge over the Alfios River that adorned the old 5000 drachma note. The old bridge now sits beneath a large modern concrete bridge.
SLEEPING & EATING
Vrenthi Rooms ( 27910 31650; d/tr €50/65) As one of the few places to stay, this attractive stone hotel could charge a bomb, but it doesn’t and is good value. The nearby Café Vrenthi doubles as reception for the rooms.
Stavrodromi ( 27910 31284; mains €6-10) Stavrodromi means crossroads, the location of this reliable option – serving warm, filling meals – if the village taverna is closed. It’s down the hill at the junction (own transport recommended).