Greece - Korina Miller [140]
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There are two buses daily (one on Sunday) between Tripoli and Karitena (via Megalopoli; €5.30, one hour). One bus continues to Andritsena (€2.30) – check the schedule at Café Vrenthi or Café Toledo. (Note: some buses arrive/depart from the crossroads, from where it’s an arduous walk to the village.)
Stemnitsa Στεμτσα
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Stemnitsa (stem-nee-tsah), 16km north of Karitena, is a striking and beautiful village of stone houses and Byzantine churches. There are several monasteries in the area along the riverbank to the site of Ancient Gortys. The area is an excellent gateway for walks in the Lousios Gorge (boxed text).
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GORGE YOURSELF
Hiking
Hiking is a popular activity in these magnificent surroundings. There are some wonderful walks along the Lousios Gorge; the most accessible departure points are from Stemnitsa (opposite) or Dimitsana (below). Walks vary from one hour to long (and hilly) day hikes, where you can hike the entire length of the gorge, taking in monasteries including Prodomou and New and Old Philosophou. Other walks extend beyond the gorge to mountain villages. A range of walks are outlined in the excellent publication Walker’s Map of the River Lousios Valley (€4.50), available at the Open-Air Water Power Museum in Dimitsana.
Rafting & Kayaking
Based in the village of Dimitsana, Trekking Hellas of Arcadia ( 27910 25978, 6974459753; www.trekkinghellas.gr) offers various activities, including white-water rafting (€50 to €80) on the nearby Lousios and Alfios Rivers, hiking along the gorge (€20 to €50) and river trekking (€45). Minimum rates apply.
No longer in the gorge, but further north on the Ladonas River, 20km south of Klitoria (and best accessed from Klitoria), Eco Action ( 6976510597, in Athens 210 331 7866; www.ecoaction.gr) offers a choice of rafting or kayaking (both €45 to €50) on the beautiful Ladonas River. Mountain-biking trips are also available. Its riverside base camp is 7.5km from the pretty, mountaintop village of Dafni. You will normally join a group to make up numbers.
Behind the base camp, Ladonas ( 6972849530; www.dafneos.gr; d/tr €70/80) offers comfortable self-contained stone cottages, with the river about 100m away. At the time of research, a hotel was being constructed in Dafni. From Dafni you can also visit the Ladonas Dam.
Caution: river activities must not be taken lightly. Fatal accidents can and do occur.
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The town boasts a small folk art museum, but check the sign for its irregular opening times. There are an incredible 40 churches in and around the hills vicinity. Ask around for the keys to the central ones.
SLEEPING & EATING
There are domatia signs around the village. Ask at the bakery or some of the cafes for options and directions.
Sarakiniotis Rooms ( 27950 81441; www.sarakiniotis.gr; s/d/tr €40/50/65) Among the town’s few options for the budget traveller are these basic, slightly dark rooms.
Mpelleiko ( 6976607967; www.mpelleiko.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €80/95/110) Superior in design and lofty location, this superbly renovated house is perched behind the village and is by far the most original of all sleeping options. The friendly, hospitable English-speaking owner has converted her family home (dating from 1650) into a guest house in artistic and tasteful contemporary Greek style. You can even sleep in the former ‘donkey basement’. The breakfasts – serving homemade produce – and the breakfast room are especially tasteful. For directions, enquire at the jam shop at the southern end of town; look for the ‘B&B’ sign.
Hotel Trikolonion ( in Athens 210 688 9249; www.countryclub.gr; d incl breakfast €150; ) A member of the Country Club group, the large, stone-hewn Trikolonion offers a more predictable luxurious, lodge-style experience. The rooms feature dark-wood furnishings, muted colours and heavy fabrics. Rates soar on Friday and Saturday.
I Stemnitsa ( 27950 81371; mains €3.50-13; lunch & dinner) It may be the only taverna open year-round, but you could do worse. Tables are under giant brollies and good,