Greece - Korina Miller [141]
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There is one bus each weekday to/from Stemnitsa and Tripoli (€4, one hour). The bus to Tripoli heads to Dimitsana. Times change seasonally.
Dimitsana Δημητσα
pop 230
Built amphitheatrically on two hills at the beginning of the Lousios Gorge, Dimitsana (dih-mi-tsah-nah), 11km north of Stemnitsa, is a delightful medieval village. This small place played a significant role in the country’s struggle for self-determination. Its Greek school, founded in 1764, was an important spawning ground for the ideas leading to the uprisings against the Turks. Its students included Bishop Germanos of Patra and Patriarch Gregory V, who was hanged by the Turks in retaliation for the massacre in Tripoli. The village also had a number of gunpowder factories and a branch of the secret Filiki Eteria (Friendly Society) where Greeks met to discuss the revolution.
It’s a sleepy village in low season, but on weekends and during summer the town springs to life as eager hikers and out-of-towners enjoy its ambience and surrounding walks.
SIGHTS
Open-Air Water Power Museum
It may sound of marginal interest but this excellent little museum ( 27950 31630; www.piop.gr; adult/concession €3/1.50; 10am-6pm Wed-Mon summer, 10am-5pm Wed-Mon winter) offers an illuminating insight into the region’s preindustrial past. It occupies the old Agios Yiannis mill complex 1.5km south of town (signposted), where a spring-fed stream once supplied power for a succession of mills spread down the hillside. A flour mill, a gunpowder mill and a fulling tub (for treating wool) have been restored to working order. There’s also an old leather factory. A new hall will hold temporary exhibitions.
The intelligent and imaginative explanations and subtitled videos (both in English) explain the processes of gunpowder and leather production.
Four kilometres southwest from Dimitsana, along the winding road, is Zatouna village. Be sure to stop for a drink at the quirky Kafeneio To Kentron ( 27950 31361; 8am-10pm), almost a museum in itself, thanks to the previous proprietor, the current owner’s grandfather, who was both a barber and avid collector (you’ll see what we mean).
SLEEPING & EATING
You’ll see several signs for domatia in the middle of town (Plateia Agias Kyriakis).
Tsiapas Rooms to Rent ( 27950 31583; d €50-60) These great-value so-clean-you-could-eat-off-the-floor type rooms also boast fridges and hotplates. The communal living room has a fireplace – perfect for a cold evening. Signposted off Plateia Agias Kyriakis.
Koutsenis Village ( 27950 31445; www.koustenisvillage.gr; r incl breakfast €70-90; ) These brand new modern stone rooms won’t be to everyone’s taste – they are in a complex and are 1km south out of town, near the water museum – but they are well-run, clean and pleasant and afford great views down the gorge.
Hotel Dimitsana ( 27950 31518; www.hoteldimitsana.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €100/130/150; ) Situated 1km south of the village on the road to Stemnitsa, this place is like a giant ski lodge, with puffy sofas, rich fabrics and an open fire. The comfortably appointed rooms have wonderful views over the Lousios Valley.
There is little to distinguish the village’s tavernas – all serve reasonable, if similar, fare, such as rooster in red wine and fasoladha (bean soup).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There are buses from Tripoli to Dimitsana (€6, 1½ hours, two daily) and one daily (except weekends) from Dimitsana to Tripoli.
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KYNOURIA ΚΥΝΟΥΡIΑ
Kynouria is the coastal region of Arkadia. It covers a narrow strip of territory that stretches south from the tiny village of Kiveri, 41km east of Tripoli, to Kosmas, perched high in the Parnonas Mountains. Much of the land is incredibly rugged, with a narrow coastal plain and very little fertile ground.
In ancient times the region was contested by Argos and Sparta – the Argives held sway in the north and the Spartans controlled the south.