Greece - Korina Miller [142]
Kiveri to Leonidio Κιβέρι προς Λεωδιο
No more than a blip on the map, Kiveri is just south of where the main roads east from Tripoli and south from Argos meet. From here, the road hugs the coast for most of the 64km south to Leonidio, curving above a succession of tiny pebble-beached villages.
The first town of consequence is Astros, perched in the hills 28km south of Argos. The main attraction around here is the Villa of Herodes Atticus, in the hills 4.5km from the turn-off to Tripoli (or 2.5km from central Astros). It was built in the 2nd century AD for the wealthy Roman founder of the celebrated Odeon of Herodes Atticus in Athens. This was his modest country retreat, spread out over a small plateau with views over the Argolic Gulf. Recent excavations have uncovered a stunning spread of more than 10,000 sq metres of mosaics. At the time of research they were being excavated and were fenced off. Apart from some magnificent coastal scenery, there’s very little to see between Astros and the minor resort of Paralia Tyrou, 29km further south.
Leonidio Λεωδιο
pop 3224
Leonidio, 76km south of Argos, has a dramatic setting at the mouth of the Badron Gorge. Its tiny Plateia 25 Martiou is an archetypal, unspoilt, whitewashed Greek village square. Some of the older people around here still speak Tsakonika – a highly distinctive dialect dating back to the time of ancient Sparta.
There are some pleasant beaches to be found at the nearby seaside villages of Plaka and Poulithra. Plaka, 5km from Leonidio and the town’s port, is no more than a cluster of buildings around a small square. The fertile alluvial river flats between Leonidio and the coast are intensively farmed.
Leonidio is famous for its Tsakonian aubergines; each summer the town holds an annual Aubergine Festival.
SLEEPING & EATING
There are apartments for rent in town, but most people head for the beach at Plaka, where there are several domatia.
Hotel Dionysos ( 27570 23455, 6970804050; s/d/tr €35/45/50) Plaka’s only hotel, opposite the port, is a good spot to unwind and do nothing for a few days.
Fishermen’s Tavern ( 27570 22815; fish per kilogram €30-50; lunch & dinner Apr-Oct) The most modest (and the least contrived) of Plaka’s eateries is this small place with a cosy terrace. Net the daily catch of Nikos, the understated son of the owner and also a fisherman.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There are buses up and down the coast to/from Argos (€7, 2¼ hours, three daily) and Tripoli (€8, 2½ hours, two daily). In summer, there are two buses between Plaka and Leonidio (€0.80, 10 minutes). The KTEL bus station is at the Café Bar 2Porto ( 27570 22255; Thiporto).
South of Leonidio
The road south from Leonidio over the Parnonas Mountains to the village of Geraki in Lakonia, 48km away, is one of the most scenic in the Peloponnese. For the first 12km, the road snakes west up the Badron Gorge, climbing slowly away from the river until at times the water is no more than a speck of silver far below. The road then leaves the Badron and climbs rapidly towards Kosmas on dramatic hairpin bends (that make the Monaco circuit seem like an airstrip).
Just before the top of the climb, there’s a sealed road to the left leading to Moni Panagias Elonis, a remarkable little monastery perched precariously on the mountainside. Visitors are welcome provided they are suitably dressed.
It’s another 14km from the monastery to the peaceful, beautiful mountain village of Kosmas. There are several sleeping options here, including Filinouda Studios ( 27570 31463; Central Sq, Kosmas; s/d/tr €55/60/85), where you can watch the village world go by from one of these five studios (with cooking facilities), housed in a beautiful stone building. All share a pleasant communal living area with open fireplace. Ask at the shop next door (no English is spoken). Even if you don’t stay overnight, it’s worth trying the town speciality (goat) at a taverna beneath the huge plane trees in the square.
After Kosmas the road descends – more gently this time – to the village of Geraki.