Greece - Korina Miller [155]
Hotel Akrotenaritis ( 27330 54205; s €60-65, d €75-80, tr €85; ) The rough-looking exterior doesn’t reflect the cosy inside of this ski lodge–style place with its wooden features, marble floors and smart fixtures. There are cheaper and perfectly pleasant rooms in an older building nearby (singles €25 to €30, doubles €40).
Hotel Kirimai ( 27330 54288; www.kyrimai.gr; d €110-260, ste €300; ) The luxurious Kirimai is one of Greece’s most swish hospitality experiences. It sits in an idyllic setting at the far southern end of the harbour. The stone-floored, timber-beamed rooms are individually finished with decor-magazine flair. Its restaurant is open to nonguests. It’s worth splurging here; the restaurant’s head chef was Greek Chef of the Year 2006 and the menu changes regularly (mains €15 to €25).
Xenonas Laula ( 27330 54271; www.gerolimenas.net; d/tr/ste €120/120/250) The new kid on the very small block, the seven rooms in this boutique-style place have a rustic chic decor and relaxed ambience.
There is a small supermarket on the promenade, and a couple of cafes and tavernas.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There are three buses daily from Gerolimenas to Areopoli (€3.30, 45 minutes) – and on to Athens (€27), Gythio (€5.40, 1¼ hours) and Sparta (€9.30, 2¼ hours). The bus stop is outside Hotel Akrotenaritis; tickets are bought on board.
Gerolimenas to Porto Kagio
Γερολιμέας προς Πóρτο Κγιο
South of Gerolimenas, the road continues 4km to the small village of Alika, where it divides. One road leads across the mountains to the east coast, and the other goes south to Vathia and Porto Kagio. The southern road follows the coast, passing pebbly beaches. It then climbs steeply inland to Vathia, the most dramatic of the traditional Mani villages, comprising a cluster of closely packed tower houses perched on a rocky spur.
A turn-off to the right 9km south of Alika leads to Marmari, with its two sandy beaches, while the main road cuts across the peninsula to the tiny east-coast fishing village of Porto Kagio, set on a perfect horseshoe bay. The village’s three competing accommodation options are in as remote a place you’ll find anywhere on the Peloponnese.
There’s a wonderful walk to one of Europe’s southernmost points, Cape Tenaro (or Cape Matapan), whose beautiful lighthouse has been recently restored. The cape has been an important location for millenia and was first mentioned by Homer in his ‘Iliad’. Follow the signs from Porto Kagio; from the car park it’s a 45-minute walk.
Akroteri Domatia ( 27330 52013; www.porto-kagio.com; Porto Kagio; d €70-80, tr €80-100) is the type of place you’ll book into spontaneously. Its large rooms with balconies overlook the bay, glorious bay. Owner Nikos also runs boat trips.
But Arkoleri Domatia’s (former) monopoly is no longer rock-solid. Enter Hotel Psamathous ( 27330 52033; www.portokale.gr; Porto Kagio; d/tr incl breakfast €70/90; ), a Flinstones-style (modern Maniot) place owned by the crowd at Porto Taverna. Set back from the waterfront, it has stone-platform beds, mezzanines and a nearly-but-not-quite-there designer touch. And Porto Kale ( 6938 872159; Porto Kagio; d €80-90, tr €110-120), which has a clean and stylish range of rooms.
Your next-hardest decision is which of the three fish waterfront tavernas to eat at. Prices are much the same for all (mains €7 to €17, fish per kilogram €40 to €70).
East Coast
The east coast is even more rugged and barren than the west. The main town is Lagia, 12km northeast of the Alika turn-off. Perched some 400m above sea level, it was once the chief town of the southeastern Mani. Some of its towers are now derelict (although many are being renovated); it remains a formidable-looking place, especially when approached from Alika.
From Lagia, the road winds down with spectacular views of the little fishing harbour of Agios Kyprianos