Greece - Korina Miller [156]
There are a couple of seasonal hotels in Kokala and Kotronas, but nothing worth stopping for.
Public transport is limited – there’s a bus service between Areopoli and Lagia (€3.30, 40 minutes, one to two daily).
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MESSINIAN MANI
The Messinian Mani, or outer Mani, lies to the north of its Lakonian counterpart, sandwiched between the Taÿgetos Mountains and the west coast of the Mani peninsula. Kalamata lies at the northern end of the peninsula. The rugged coast is scattered with small coves and beaches, and backed by mountains that remain snowcapped until late May. There are glorious views and hiking opportunities.
Stoupa Στοπα
pop 625
The former fishing village of Stoupa, 10km south of Kardamyli, is a resort village teetering on the verge of overdevelopment, and billed as a place for discriminating (mainly British) package tourists. Although not as picturesque as Kardamyli, it does have two lovely sandy beaches.
Celebrated author Nikos Kazantzakis lived here for a while and based the protagonist of his novel Zorba the Greek on Alexis Zorbas, a coal mine supervisor in Pastrova, near Stoupa. Useful for walkers is Walks in the Stoupa Area by Lance Chilton, available from travel agencies.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
Stoupa is 1km west of the main Areopoli–Kalamata road, connected by roads both north and south of town. Both roads lead to the larger of Stoupa’s main beaches – a crescent of golden sand.
Stoupa’s amenities have yet to catch up with its development. There is no tourist office, but most travel agencies will reliably change money and organise car hire. Recommended agencies include Zorbas ( 27210-77735; www.zorbas.de) along the waterfront and Thomeas Travel ( 27210 77689; www.thomeastravel.gr). On the coast road behind the main beach, Katerina’s supermarket ( 27210 77777) doubles as the post office; it also changes money and sells phonecards.
SLEEPING & EATING
Stoupa’s growing band of pensions and custom-built domatia tend to be block booked by package-tour operators. Travel agencies may be able to help you.
Hotel Apartments Maistreli ( 27210 77595; maistreli@otenet.gr; 2-/4-person studio €60/100; ) The Maistreli is comfortable, clean and about 100m back from the beach.
Hotel Lefktron ( 27210 77322; info@lefktron-hotel.gr; s/d incl breakfast €87/104; ) Signposted off the southern approach road to Stoupa, this is a comfortable modern hotel 150m from the beach. The rooms have fridge and air-con, satellite TV and balconies.
Dolcini ( 27210 78234) Chocaholics will love this pastry shop – it’s almost worth coming to Stoupa for this place alone.
Voula’s Yesterday & Today ( 27210 77535; mains €4.50-12.50; dinner) Voula in her words, ‘cooks from her heart’. She serves up traditional foods from a bygone era and contemporary dishes. The menu includes lamb in the oven (€10), smoked pork with pesto and mozarella (€12.50), and homemade pies (from €4.50), as well as other sweet and savoury treats.
Taverna Akrogiali ( 27210 77335; mains €7-12; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This taverna has a top location at the southern end of the beach, and an extensive menu that’s strong on seafood (platters for €12) and good local dishes.
There are supermarkets on the main road behind Stoupa.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Stoupa is on the main Itilo–Kalamata bus route. Three to four buses head daily to Itilo (40 minutes) and Kalamata (1¼ hours, 20 minutes). There are bus stops at the junctions of both the southern and northern approach roads, but the buses don’t go into town.
Kardamyli Καρδαμλη
pop 400
It’s easy to see why Kardamyli (kahr-dah-mee-lih) was one of the seven cities offered to Achilles by Agamemnon. This tiny village has one of the prettiest settings in the