Greece - Korina Miller [159]
Launderette ( 27210 95978; Methonis 3; per load wash & dry €8; 9am-2pm & 6-9pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
Port post office (Navarinou; 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Opposite the port.
Post office (Olgas; 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri)
Tourist police ( 27210 44680; Messinis; 8am-9pm Mon-Fri)
Sights
KASTRO
Looming over the town is the 13th-century kastro (admission free; 8am-2pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun). Remarkably, it survived the 1986 earthquake. The entry gate is its most impressive feature. There’s not much else to see, but there are good views from the battlements.
BENAKION ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
This museum ( 27210 26209; Papazoglou 6) was about to reopen at the time of research after a period of renovation. Based on the excitement, we suggest it’s well worth checking out. It’s just north of Plateia 23 Martiou, signposted off Ypapantis.
HISTORICAL & FOLKLORE MUSEUM OF KALAMATA
This eggshell-blue building holds an exquisite collection ( 27210 28449; Ioannou 12, cnr Kyriakou; adult/concession €2/1; 9am-1pm Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) of local artefacts – from tools and looms to household items and clothes – that offer a thorough insight into Kalamata’s bygone era. All the items have been donated by local people; the museum is run by volunteers with support from the Association for the Spread of Education. The compact exhibitions are spread over two floors. It’s a professional place and well worth supporting in any event.
MILITARY MUSEUM
Keen military buffs may enjoy the Military Museum ( 27210 21219; Mitropolitou Meletiou 10; admission free; 9am-2pm Tue-Sat,11am-2pm Sun). The displays span a broad chronological sweep from the Turkish occupation (depicted in grisly paintings) to the 21st century. National servicemen take guided tours (English speakers are supposedly available). Unfortunately, all signage is in Greek.
Festivals & Events
Held in July each year to changing dates, the Kalamata International Dance Festival draws crowds for its quality performances of traditional music and dance. Venues include the amphitheatre of the kastro. Tickets range between €12 and €25. www.kalamatadancefestival.gr for more information.
Sleeping
The waterfront east of Faron is lined with characterless C-class (two-star) hotels that are best avoided.
Hotel Nevada ( 27210 81811; www.hotelnevada.gr; Santa Rosa 9; s/d €30/50) This 20-plus-year-old place has had a makeover. It has simple, spacious and clean rooms, outfitted in modern Greek style. It’s not located by the beach, but in a quieter street nearby. Depending on demand, we’re not convinced the prices will remain as stated. If they do, they’re good value.
Hotel Haikos ( 27210 88902; www.haikos.com; Navarino 115; s/d/tr €70/105/125) One of the best choices of the slightly daggy, modern(ish) two-star hotels along the beachfront, with motel-style trimmings, such as hair dryers and bar fridges. Rooms at the front can catch the street noise. Breakfast is €6 extra. Prices are significantly less outside high season.
Hotel Rex ( 27210 94440; www.rexhotel.gr; Aristomenous 26; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast €97/138/172/245; ) The Rex stands unchallenged as the best address (with the slowest lift) in Kalamata. It occupies a fine neoclassical building, and offers travellers comfortable – if slightly cramped – modern rooms with all the facilities, including satellite TV.
Eating
I Milopetra ( 27210 98950; snacks €3.50-10; lunch & dinner) A cosmopolitan, contemporary and upmarket cafe with an olive theme, in a handy location near Plateia 23 Martiou in the old town. Serves gourmet snacks and olive-based products.
Routsi’s ( 27210 80830; Navarino 127; mains €7-10) A favourite among expats, this eatery serves traditional food at very reasonable prices.
The Marina is the best place for seafood and other tavernas at a varying range of styles and prices.
Self-caterers should visit the large food market (Nedontos) across the bridge from the KTEL Messinia bus station. Kalamata is noted for its olives, olive oil and figs (boxed text). There are also dozens of