Greece - Korina Miller [160]
Getting There & Away
AIR
Olympic Air runs a flight between Kalamata and Thessaloniki (€80, three weekly), but not Athens.
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KALAMATA OLIVES
Kalamata gives its name to the prized Kalamata olive, a plump, purple-black variety that is found in delicatessens around the world and is also grown extensively (although not exclusively) in neighbouring Lakonia. The region’s reliable winter rains and hot summers make for perfect olive-growing conditions.
The Kalamata tree is distinguished from the common olive (grown for oil) by the size of its leaves. Like its fruit, the leaves of the Kalamata are twice the size of other varieties and a darker shade of green.
Unlike other varieties, Kalamata olives can’t be picked green. They ripen in late November and must be hand-picked to avoid bruising. You can buy and sample these famous olives at the markets in Kalamata.
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BOAT
A weekly ferry service operated by LANE Lines runs from Kalamata to Crete, via Kythira. Contact SMAN Travel/Maniatis ( 27210 20704; smantrv@otenet.gr; Psaron), by the port, for the schedule. For more detailed information about getting to the Greek islands from Kalamata, Island Hopping.
BUS
KTEL Messinia bus station ( 27210 28581; Artemidos) has buses to Athens (€20, 4½ hours, 13 daily) via Tripoli (€7.20, 1¼ hours) and Corinth Isthmus (€15, 2½ hours), Kyparissia (€6, 1¼ hours, four daily) and Patra (€20.30, four hours, two daily) via Pyrgos (€14, two hours).
Heading west, there are buses to Koroni (€4.20, 1½ hours, eight daily), Pylos (€4.20, 1¼ hours, five daily), Methoni (€5, 1½ hours, five daily) and Finikounda (€6.30, 1¾ hours, three daily). Heading east across the Langada Pass to Sparta (€2.40, 45 minutes, two daily) involves changing buses at Artemisia. There are also three buses to the Messinian Mani, travelling as far as Itilo (€6.60, 2¼ hours). Two of these head via Kardamyli (€3.40, one hour, weekdays only) and Stoupa (€4, 1¼ hours). Weekend services for all routes are greatly reduced or nonexistent.
TRAIN
Kalamata is the end of the line for the Peloponnese railway (boxed text). Four trains depart daily on the west-coast line to Corinth (€17.60), Pyrgos (normal/IC €3.70/6.90) and Patra (normal/IC €6.60/11.30, five hours).
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Kalamata’s airport is 10.5km west of the city near Messini. There is no airport shuttle bus. A taxi costs about €15 to €20.
BUS
Local buses leave from the KTEL Messinia bus station. The most useful service is bus 1, which goes south to the seafront and then east along Navarinou as far as the Filoxenia Hotel. Buy tickets (€1) from kiosks or the driver.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Kalamata is a good place to rent a vehicle, due to hot competition between the agencies at the waterfront end of Faron. Recommended options:
Alpha Rent a Bike ( 27210 93423; www.alphabike.gr; Vyronos 143) Rents a range of bikes from 50cc to 500cc.
Avis ( 27210 20352; Kesari 2)
Hertz ( 27210 88268; www.hertz.gr; cnr Methonis & Kanari 88)
Verga Rent a Car ( 27210 95190; Faron 202)
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MAVROMATI (ANCIENT MESSINI)
ΜΑΥΡΟΜΑΤΙ (ΑΡΧΑΙΑ ΜΕΣΣΗΝΗ)
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The fascinating ruins of Ancient Messini lie scattered across a small valley below the pretty village of Mavromati, 25km northwest of Kalamata. The village takes its name from the fountain in the central square; the water gushes from a hole in the rock that looks like a black eye (mavro mati in Greek).
History
Ancient Messini was founded in 371 BC after the Theban general Epaminondas defeated Sparta at the Battle of Leuctra, freeing the Messinians from almost 350 years of Spartan rule.
Built on the site of an earlier stronghold, the new Messinian capital was one of a string of defensive positions designed to keep watch over Sparta. Epaminondas himself helped to plan the fortifications, which were based on a massive wall that stretched 9km around the surrounding ridges and completely enclosed the town.
Apart from its defensive potential, Ancient