Greece - Korina Miller [161]
Sights
EXPLORING THE SITE
The best views of this beautiful site are from Mavromati’s central square, and it’s worth briefly examining the layout before heading down for a closer look. Access is by a road near the museum, about 300m northwest of the square.
The museum ( 27210 51201; adult/concession €2/1; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) houses a small and interesting collection of finds from the site, mainly statues recovered from the asklepion. They include two statues assumed to be of Machaon and Podaleiros, the sons of Asclepius. They are thought to be the work of the sculptor Damophon, who specialised in oversized statues of gods and heroes, and was responsible for many of the statues that once adorned Ancient Messini.
Before heading down to the site, it’s worth continuing another 800m along the road past the museum to view the celebrated Arcadian Gate. This unusual circular gate guarded the ancient route to Megalopoli – now the modern road north to Meligalas and Zerbisia – which runs through the gate. Running uphill from the gate is the finest surviving section of the mighty defensive wall built by Epaminondas. It remains impressive, studded with small, square forts, and is well worth the gentle uphill walk from the village.
The site (admission free) itself remained unexplored until recent times, and is still emerging from the valley floor as ongoing excavations are taking place. One of the most impressive areas is the asklepion complex that lay at the heart of the ancient city. This extensive complex was centred on a Doric temple that once housed a golden statue of Ithomi. The modern awning west of the temple protects the artemision, where fragments of an enormous statue of Artemis Orthia were found. The structures to the east of the asklepion include the ekklesiasterion, which once acted as an assembly hall.
The site’s main path leads downhill from the asklepion to the imposing stadium, which is surrounded by the ruins of an enormous gymnasium.
Sleeping & Eating
Likourgos Rooms ( 27240 51297; d/tr €55/70) This is a spacious and comfortable modern option whose front rooms afford glimpses of the ruins. The helpful owner speaks some English.
Besides a couple of local kafeneia (coffee houses), Taverna Ithomi is the only eatery in town (mains €6 to €12).
Getting There & Away
There are two buses to Mavromati (€2.20, one hour, weekdays only) from Kalamata, one in the early morning, the other in the afternoon, to a changing schedule. Check at the taverna.
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KORONI ΚΟΡΩΝΗ
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Koroni (ko-ro-nih) is a lovely Venetian port town, 43km southwest of Kalamata, situated on Messinia Bay. Medieval mansions and churches line the town’s quaint, narrow and winding streets. These lead to a promontory, on which perches an extensive castle.
Orientation & Information
Buses will drop you in the central square outside the Church of Agios Dimitrios, one block back from the harbour. The main street (formal name Perikli Ralli, but few know it) runs east from the square, one block back from the sea.
There is no tourist office, but the large town map on the cathedral wall shows the location of both banks and the post office ( 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri), all of which are nearby. There are no tourist police.
Sights & Activities
Much of the old castle is occupied by the Timios Prodromos Convent. Note the castle’s impressive Gothic entrance. The small promontory beyond the castle is a tranquil place for a stroll, with lovely views over the Messinian Gulf to the Taÿgetos Mountains.
Koroni’s main attraction is Zaga Beach, a long sweep of golden sand just south of the town. It takes about 20 minutes to walk to Zaga Beach – you can cut through the castle or go via the road. Ask locals for directions.
Koroni also sees loggerhead turtles, which lay their eggs near Zaga. For more information regarding this endangered