Greece - Korina Miller [173]
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
In high season there are daily flights between Kythira and Athens (€52 to €70, 40 minutes). The airport is 10km east of Potamos, and Olympic Air ( 27360 33362) is on the central square in Potamos. Book also at Kythira Travel ( 27360 31390) in Hora.
Boat
The island’s main connection is between Diakofti and Neapoli in the Peloponnese. Tickets are sold at the port just before departure, or at Kythira Travel ( in Hora 27360 31390, in Potamos 27360 31848) in Hora and Potamos.
LANE Lines calls at the southern port of Diakofti on its weekly schedule between Piraeus, Kythira, Antikythira, Crete and Gythio (Peloponnese). Information and tickets are available from the helpful staff at Porfyra Travel ( /fax 27360 31888; www.kythira.info) in Livadi (north of Hora).
GETTING AROUND
Occasional buses may operate during August. There are taxis, but the best way to see the island is with your own transport. Drakakis Tours ( 27360 31160, 6944840497; www.drakakistours.gr; Livadi) rents a range of cars, including vans and 4WD. Panayotis Rent A Car ( 27360 31600; www.panayotis-rent-a-car.gr) on Kapsali’s waterfront rents cars and mopeds. Both will arrange pick-up from the port or the airport.
Hora Χώρα
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Hora (or Kythira), the island’s capital, is a pretty village of Cycladic-style white, blue-shuttered houses, perched on a long, slender ridge stretching north from an impressive 13th-century Venetian kastro. The central square, planted with hibiscus, bougainvillea and palms, is Plateia Dimitriou Staï. The main street, Spyridonos Staï, runs south from the central square to the kastro.
INFORMATION
Branches of the National Bank of Greece and ATE Bank, both with ATMs, are on the central square.
Fos Fanari ( 27360 31644; 8am-late) This cafe-bar offers free wi-fi to clients.
Internet Service (Kodak shop, Spyridonos Staï; per hr €5; 9am-2pm & 6-9pm Mon-Sat) Travellers can check email here.
Police station ( 27360 31206) Near the kastro.
Polyredo ( 27360 39000; per hr €4) The island’s best internet place is based in Livadi, just north of Hora.
Post office ( 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) On the central square.
SIGHTS
Hora’s Venetian kastro (admission free; 8am-7pm), built in the 13th century, is at the southern end of town. If you walk to its southern extremity, passing the Church of Panagia, you will come to a sheer cliff – from here there’s a stunning view of Kapsali and, on a good day, of Antikythira.
Call in to Stavros ( 27360 31857), a shop north of the square (opposite the turn-off to Kapsali) and pick up some of the local produce, including some of Greece’s best honey.
At the time of research, the town’s archaeological museum, north of the central square, was closed due to damage from the earth tremor in January 2006.
SLEEPING& EATING
Castello Rooms ( 27360 31069; www.castelloapts-kythera.gr; d/tr €45/55; ) The seven comfortable rooms represent the best deal in town, if not the island. Set back from the main street, this place is surrounded by a well-tended garden full of flowers, vegetables and fruit trees. The rooms have TV and some have kitchen facilities. It’s signposted at the southern end of Spiridonos Staϊ.
Hotel Margarita ( 27360 31711; www.hotel-margarita.com; off Spyridonos Staϊ; s/d incl breakfast €70/110; ) This white-walled, blue-shuttered and generally charming hotel offers atmospheric rooms (all with TV and telephone) in a renovated 19th-century mansion, featuring B&W marble floors and a quirky old spiral staircase. The whitewashed terrace affords fantastic port views.
Zorba’s ( 27360 31655; dinner) The pick of the bunch for the town’s meals, and highly recommended by locals.
Kapsali Kαψλι
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The scenic village of Kapsali, 2km south of Hora, served as Hora’s port in Venetian times. It features twin sandy bays and a curving waterfront; this looks striking viewed from Hora’s castle. Restaurants and cafes line the beach, and safe sheltered swimming is Kapsali’s trademark. However, it can get crowded in high season.
Offshore you can