Greece - Korina Miller [174]
Kapsali goes into hibernation in winter, coming to life between April and October. There’s a small supermarket, and the Kytherian Gallery sells international newspapers as well as souvenirs.
Panayotis at Moto Rent ( 27360 31600), on the waterfront, rents canoes and pedal boats as well as cars, mopeds and bicycles. Kaptain Spiros ( 6974022079) takes daily boat cruises on his glass-bottomed boat (from €12 per person), including to Itra, where you can swim.
SLEEPING & EATING
Aphrodite Apartments ( 27360 31328; afrodite@aias.gr; d/tr/q €70/75/90) These no-nonsense, no-frills but perfectly pleasant apartments on the road and facing the sea, are run by a friendly, English-speaking local. Great value, and prices plummet outside August.
Spitia Vassilis ( 27360 31125; www.kythirabungalowsvasili.gr; d/tr/q €80/95/100) This attractive green-and-white complex of studios has the perfect setting – away from the hordes and overlooking Kapsali Beach. The spacious rooms feature that rustic-painted-timber-floor look and good bay views. It is on the right as you approach Kapsali from Hora. No English spoken.
El Sol Hotel ( 27360 31766; www.elsolhotels.gr; d/tr/studio incl breakfast €120/140/150 ) Signposted off the Hora–Kapsali road is this luxurious resort-style, Cycladic-looking option, with a view of Kapsali and Hora’s kastro. Management’s promo line is ‘If Zeus went on holidays, you’d surely have him as a room mate’. If they could throw him in, too, we’d say it’s great value; at this stage, save your pennies (and energy) until the cheaper rates outside high season.
Hydragogio ( 27360 31065; mains €5-12, fish per kilogram €20-70) Occupying a great spot overlooking the beach at the far end by the rocks, and specialising in fresh fish and traditional Greek fare (with a good vegetarian range), this is the place to go for a good feed, and to feel you’re really on holiday.
Potamos Ποταμóς
pop 680
Potamos, 10km southwest of Agia Pelagia, is the island’s commercial hub. The National Bank of Greece (with ATM) is on the central square and the post office ( 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) is just north of the central square.
Its Sunday morning flea market seems to attract just about everyone on the island.
There are a couple of decent places to look out for. Popular with locals, Taverna Panaretos ( 27360 34290; mains €7-14; lunch & dinner year-round) is a natural – it uses home-grown everything, from oil to vegies and cheese. Want to try wild goat with olive oil and oregano (€9.50) or eggplant on coals (€4)? Naturally.
The island’s hip and happenin’ place, Kafe Astikon ( 27360 33141; 7am-late; ), offers a mix of retro designer mixed with 1930s French. Add in great music – from traditional Greek to Latin and rock, plus wireless connection, and you’ll not care what you’re there for. Except that it’s got great drinks of the top-shelf variety and all manner of snacks.
Mylopotamos Μυλοπóταμος
pop 70
Mylopotamos is a quaint village nestled in a small valley, 12km southwest of Potamos. Its central square is flanked by a charming church and the authentically traditional Kafeneio O Platanos ( 27360 33397), which in summer becomes a restaurant with an outdoor setting in the square. It’s worth a stroll to the Neraïda (water nymph) waterfall, with luxuriant greenery and mature, shady trees. As you reach the church, take the right fork and follow the signs to an unpaved road leading down to the falls. (Alternatively, you can head there on foot – follow the signs after the church.)
To reach the abandoned kastro of Mylopotamos, take the left fork after the kafeneio and follow the old faded sign for Kato Hora (Lower Village) and then the modern signs to the Cave of Agia Sofia. The road leads to the centre of Kato Hora, from where a portal leads into the spooky kastro, with derelict houses and well-preserved little