Greece - Korina Miller [175]
Several fabulous walks start in Mylopotomas – refer to Kythira on Foot: 32 Carefully Selected Walking Routes (Click here). The most picturesque and challenging walk heads along a gorge where there are the ruins of former flour mills. You pass waterfalls and swimming holes along the way.
The staff at Kafeneio O Platanos (left) is happy to help you with sleeping options.
Agia Pelagia Αγα Πελαγα
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Kythira’s northern port of Agia Pelagia is a simple, friendly waterfront village, although sadly, this is on the verge of being ruined by modern buildings, as are the sand-and-pebble beaches either side of the quay. Nevertheless, it’s pleasant for relaxing, and Red Beach, south of the headland, is a good swimming spot.
A good sleeping option is the Hotel Pelagia Aphrodite ( 27360 33926/7; www.pelagia-aphrodite.com; s/d/tr €75/90/120; Apr-Oct; ). This Greek-Australian-run hotel is modern and spotless with large, airy rooms, most with balconies overlooking the sea. Its perfect location is on a small headland on the southern edge of the village. Breakfast is €7.
Kaleris ( 27360 33461; mains €5.50-12; dinner) might inspire you to ask what is a place like this doing in a place like this? Agia Pelagia is all the better for it. Owner-chef Yiannis pushes the culinary boundaries, giving Greek cuisine a refreshing new twist. Thankfully, he hasn’t lost sight of his roots – he uses the best of local products. So fresh, in fact, that his delectable parcels of feta cheese drizzled with local thyme-infused honey (€6), vrechtoladea (traditional rusks; €5) and homemade beef tortellini (€8) simply walk out the door. See also Stirring Traditions, opposite.
Around Kythira
If you have transport, a spin round the island is rewarding. The monasteries of Agia Moni and Agia Elesis are mountain refuges with superb views. Moni Myrtidion is a beautiful monastery surrounded by trees. From Hora, drive northeast to Avlemonas, via Paleopoli with its wide, pebbled beach. Archaeologists spent years searching for evidence of a temple at Aphrodite’s birthplace at Avlemonas. Here, you must stay on the ball: see if you can spot the blink-or-you’ll-miss kofinidia – two small rock protrusions – these are the mythological (or otherwise) sex organs of Cronos, after Zeus had tossed them into the sea foam. Don’t bypass the spectacularly situated ruins of the Byzantine capital of Paliohora, in the island’s northeast, fun for exploring.
In Kato Livadi, don’t miss the small but stunning collection of artworks of Kythira in the Museum of Byzantine and post-Byzantine art on Kythira ( 27360 31731; 8.30am-2.30pm; adult/concession €2/1; closed Mon). Just north of Kato Livadi make a detour to see the architecturally anomalous Katouni Bridge, a British-built legacy of Kythira’s time as part of the British Protectorate in the 19th century. In the far north of the island the village of Karavas is verdant, very attractive and close to both Agia Pelagia and the reasonable beach at Platia Ammos. Beachcombers should seek out Kaladi Beach, near Paleopoli. Fyri Ammos, closer to Hora, is another good beach – but hard to access.
EATING
Skandia ( 27360 33700; Paleopolis; mains €7-10; lunch & dinner Apr-Oct, Fri-Sun Nov-Mar) Among one of the most pleasant places to eat on the island, mainly because of its setting: away from the madding crowds, under shady elm trees, in a homey environment. Its fish is priced per kilogram; lobster with spaghetti is a fave (but watch the wallet – lobster weighs in at a hefty €85 per kilogram).
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STIRRING TRADITIONS
Yiannis Prineas, 31, left Athens and returned to Agia Pelagia, on the island of Kythira to run his family restaurant, Kaleris (opposite), started by his grandfather in 1956. Yiannis is pushing the boundaries of traditional Greek cuisine, producing fine Greek dishes with a gourmet twist (think mousakas – usually baked layers of eggplant or zucchini – with mushrooms, and feta in cheese parcels drizzled with thyme-infused honey and sesame seeds). The result has convinced the most hardened of traditional taverna-goers