Greece - Korina Miller [176]
What is your aim? My basic vision is Greek and traditional Greek-Mediterranean but I’m trying to make modern dishes with local products. I want to make my experiences (working in five-star hotels in gourmet restaurants in Athens) into something a bit more modern with how people view traditional cuisine.
Most of the Greeks love food because it’s an enjoying time [sic]…but many of the Greeks, they are not so focussed. They don’t understand the flavours – they eat with beers and cigarettes. Many are hard workers – builders and farmers – and food is to fill their stomach. They do not take a menu and review it.
A lot of our food is ‘Mama’s food’. Mama’s food is lovely, but…
Have you succeeded in changing people’s views about traditional Greek food? I have changed some people and I have seen people change on their own. When they find the difference, they start to appreciate it and their minds start to work: food is not only to fill the stomach! Even if they don’t like my dishes, I like this, because [at least] they have an opinion.
What is your secret? Every day is a new day. Every day is a new space for creativity. You have to be ‘inside’ of the food. If you are inside you do not do mistakes… You can make the best food even with not so many things [ingredients]. It’s the process: how you prepare and how you cook. I change the menu every week. Here in Kythira we are in the heart of the Mediterranean with excellent cheese, vegetables, meats (sheep, goats and chickens) – our materials [ingredients] are good.
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Varkoula ( 27360 34224; Platia Ammos; mains €7-12, fish per kilogram €40-75; lunch & dinner daily May-Oct, Fri & Sat Nov-Mar) At this varkoula (‘little boat’) you can enjoy freshly cooked fish to the tunes of the bouzouki-strumming owner and his cardiologist guitar-playing friend. Athena’s famous fried bread with cheese is a real heart stopper. It’s a beat away from Karavas, in the island’s north. As it’s a decent drive north, ring ahead first to confirm opening hours – these can be irregular.
Estiatorion Pierros ( 27360 31014; Livadi; mains €10-12, fish per kilogram €35-60; lunch & dinner) Since 1933 this family-run and long-standing favourite has served no-nonsense Greek staples. Visit the kitchen to view the daily offerings – there’s no menu. On the main road through Livadi.
Sotiris ( 27360 33722; Avlemonas; fish per kilogram €30-75; lunch & dinner daily Apr-Oct, Fri-Sun Nov-Mar) This popular fish taverna in pretty Avlemonas has good lobster and fish soup (fish and lobster are priced per kilogram).
Psarotaverna H Manolis ( 27360 33748; Diakofti; fish & lobster per kilogram €45-70; lunch & dinner) A star among Diakofti’s uninspiring port setting. Locals head here for the excellent fresh fish and seasonal offerings.
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ANTIKYTHIRA ΑΝΤΙΚYΘΗΡΑ
pop 20
The tiny island of Antikythira, 38km southeast of Kythira, is the most remote island in the Ionians. It has only one settlement (Potamos), one doctor, one police officer, one telephone and a monastery. It has no post office or bank. The only accommodation option is 10 basic rooms in two purpose-built blocks, open in summer only. Potamos has a kafeneio-cum-taverna.
Getting There & Away
The ferry company ANEN Lines (www.anen.gr) calls at Antikythira on its route between Kythira and Kissamos on Crete. This is not an island for tourists on a tight schedule and will probably only appeal to those who really like isolation. For information and tickets, contact Porfyra Travel ( /fax 27360 31888; porfyra@otenet.gr) in Livadi on Kythira.
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Central Greece
Κετρικ Ελλδα
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STEREA ELLADA ΣΤΕΡΕΑ ΕΛΛΑΔΑ
THIVA (THEBES) ΘHΒΑ
AROUND THIVA
LIVADIA ΛΙΒΑΔΕΙA
DELPHI ΔΕΛΦΟI
AROUND DELPHI
MT PARNASSOS ΠΑΡΝΑΣΣOΣ ΟΡΟΣ
ARAHOVA ΑΡAΧΩΒΑ
LIVADIA TO DELPHI
GALAXIDI ΓΑΛΛΑΞIΔΙ
NAFPAKTOS ΝΑΥΠΑΚΤΟΣ
MESSOLONGI ΜΕΣΟΛOΓΓΙ
AROUND MESSOLONGI
KARPENISI ΚΑΡΠΕΝH