Greece - Korina Miller [188]
History
During the War of Independence (1821–30), Britain’s philhellenic bard Lord Byron arrived in Messolongi with the intention of organising the troops and supporting the Greek war effort. After months of vain attempts, Byron contracted a fever and died on 19 April 1824, his immediate aims unfulfilled.
But Byron’s death was not in vain – it spurred international forces to hasten the end of the War of Independence, making him, to this day, a Greek national hero. Many men bear the name Byron (Vyronas in Greek) and most Greek towns have a street named after him.
In the spring of 1826, under the helm of Egyptian general Ibrahim, Messolongi was captured by the Turks. Their year-long siege drove 9000 men, women and children to escape on the night of 22 April 1826 through what is now called the Gate of Exodus. Many took refuge on nearby Mt Zygos, only to be caught or killed by an Albanian mercenary force. A smaller group remained behind to detonate explosives as the Turks approached. This tragic exodus was immortalised in Dionysios Solomos’ epic poem ‘I Eleftheri Poliorkimeni’ (‘The Free Besieged’).
Orientation & Information
Messolongi is the capital of the prefecture of Etolo-Akarnania. The central square, Plateia Markou Botsari, is dominated by the town hall on its eastern side. Several of the surrounding cafes have free wi-fi, and Virtual Reality Internet Cafe (26310 26058; Razikotsika 4; per hr €2; 24hr) is just north of the square.
Sights
Just beyond the Gate of Exodus is the Garden of the Heroes ( 8am-8pm), translated incorrectly as ‘Heroes’ Tombs’ on the road sign. This memorial garden was established by the first governor of Greece following independence, Yiannis Kapodistrias, who issued the following decree:
…within these walls of the city of Messolongi lie the bones of those brave men, who fell bravely while defending the city…it is our duty to gather together, with reverence, the holy remains of these men and to lay them to rest in a memorial where our country may, each year, repay its debt of gratitude.
You will find the Greek text of this decree on the marble slab to the right as you enter the garden. A statue of Lord Byron features prominently in the garden. When Byron died, the Greeks were heartbroken at the loss of a British nobleman who had given his life for their freedom. At the end of a national 21-day mourning period, Byron’s embalmed body was returned to England, but his heart was kept by the Greeks and is buried beneath the statue. The English authorities at the time refused Byron’s burial at Westminster Abbey. Today, the monument is marked by two flags, one Greek and one British.
The Museum of History & Art ( 26310 22134; Plateia Markou Botsari; admission free; 9am-1.30pm & 4-7pm), is dedicated to the revolution and features a collection of Byron memorabilia and paintings.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Avra ( 26310 22284; hotelayram@panafonet.gr; Harilaou Trikoupi; s/d €28/45; ) The Avra is tidy and comfortable; rear-facing rooms avoid the evening din of the adjacent central Plateia Markou Botsari.
Taverna Filoxenos ( 26310 28008; Razikotsika 7; mains €5-9) One of the best kitchens along pedestrian-friendly Razikotsika, this handsome eatery serves lagoon-speared heli (grilled eel), plus fine mezedhes.
Ouzerie Dimitroukas ( 26310 23237; Razikotsika 11; mains €5-9) Next door to Filoxenos, this reliable place is also popular for Messolongi’s speciality – look for the eels hanging in the window.
Getting There & Away
The KTEL Messolongi station ( 26310 22371; Mavrokordatou 5) is just off the central Plateia Markou Botsari. There are regular buses to Athens via Rio–Andirio (€21, 3½ hours, 12 daily), Patra (€5, one hour, nine daily), Agrinio (€3.30, 35 minutes, hourly), Nafpaktos (€5, 50 minutes, three daily), Amfissa (€12, three hours, twice daily) and Mytikas (€8, 1½ hours, once daily).
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