Greece - Korina Miller [189]
AROUND MESSOLONGI
Tourlida Τουρλδα
You can drive, walk or cycle across the surreal Klisova Lagoon via the 5km-long causeway to visit the sandy hamlet of Tourlida, with Alikes Taverna ( 26310 24327; mains €5-8), worth a stop for excellent grilled eel, and clean and breezy Domatia Iliovasilema ( 26310 51408, 69779 28335; d/tr/q €40/50/60; ) making staying overnight easy.
Northwest to Mytikas & Astakos
Μτικας & Αστακóς
Of the scattered seaside villages facing the Ionian Sea, only Astakos and Mytikas merit a second look. In summer, it’s a lovely coastal drive, and a lone bus makes daily runs from Messolongi.
A sleepy charmer on the Ionian coastline (63km from Messolongi) the pebbly shore of Mytikas is lined with palm trees, houses, a few domatia (rooms in a private house) plus a scattering of tavernas. You can take a local caïque to the isolated islets of Kalamos (€3 return, 15 minutes, twice daily) looming over Mytikas, or Kastos, tucked away on the other side. Enquire at Taverna Limani ( 26460 81271) near the dock. If the owner-captain-cook isn’t mending a fishing net, he’ll probably take you over on demand. And if you decide the outside world can wait a day, scan the beach for Kohili Rooms ( 26460 81356; s/d €40/60; ). Camping Ionion ( /fax 26460 81110; camp sites per adult/tent €6/5; May-Oct) is 500m south of village.
Astakos, 14km south, lacks Mytikas’ cosiness, but it’s a convenient stepping stone for access to the Ionian Islands, via the daily ferry to Ithaki (Piso Aetos) and Kefallonia (Sami) in summer. For details Island Hopping. A few cafes, domatia and tavernas line the small waterfront, but best-in-show goes to Poseidon Palace ( 26460 41661; mains €4-7.50), where cook-proprietor George modestly claims, ‘Have everything, simple souvlaki, great fish, what you like’. A kids’ menu is a bonus.
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KARPENISI ΚΑΡΠΕΝHΣΙ
pop 9390
Karpenisi, the low-key capital of the mountainous prefecture of Evritania, lies in the well-wooded foothills of Mt Tymfristos, or Velouchi (2312m), between Lamia and Lake Kremasta. Not surprisingly, the town has an alpine-village feel to it, with chalet-style lodgings mixed in among its churches, tavernas and bakeries. Today, opportunities abound for hiking, rafting, skiing and mountain biking to steep villages and historical monasteries. Pick up Anavasi Map No 2.4/2.5, Mountains of Evritania, for detailed routes.
Karpenisi lies in the heart of mainland Greece, reachable from Trikala to the north, Lamia to the east, or Agrinio to the southwest via a spectacular if tortuous mountain route. Perhaps the most interesting approach, however winds north from Nafpaktos through the town of Thermo in the hills above Lake Trihonida, Greece’s largest natural lake, then past the dramatic village of Prousos.
Orientation
The thoroughfares of Zinopoulou, Athanasiou Karpenisioti and Spyridonos Georgiou Tsitsara run downhill from Plateia Markos Botsaris; Ethnikis Andistasis runs northwest from it.
Information
EMERGENCY
Hospital ( 22370 80680; Ethnikis Antistasis 9)
Police ( 22370 23666; Pavlou Bakogianni 2)
INTERNET ACCESS
Cinema Café ( 69797 27467; cnr Evritanon & Neraida; wi-fi free; 8am-3am)
Phoenix Internet Café ( 22370 23696; Kosma Aitolou; per hr €2; 11am-3am)
LAUNDRY
Ariston Laundry ( 22370 22887; Athanasiou Karpenisioti 25)
MONEY
Six of the banks around the central square have ATMs.
POST
Post office (cnr Agiou Nikolaou & Athanasiou Karpenisiotou; 7.30am-1.30pm)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist office ( /fax 22370 21016; www.karpenissi.gr; Markou Botsari 5; 9am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Can provide local maps and help with accommodation and destinations around Karpenisi; 100m down the cobbled lane below the plateia.
Activities
The Karpenisi ski centre ( 22370 23506; www.snowreport.gr/karpenissi) on Mt Tymfristos operates six lifts with 11 runs from November to March. Karpenisi is also a mecca for hikers, rafters, mountain bikers and rock climbers.
Three friendly competitors in town