Greece - Korina Miller [190]
The well-run Trekking Hellas ( 22370 25940; www.trekking.gr; Kosma Aitolou 1) organises hikes on the Trans-European E4 trail between Karpenisi and Krikello, along with canoeing, rock climbing, river hiking and mountain biking with jeep support. A day-long rafting trip on the Tavropos River for beginners runs to €25, and a two-day hike to the mountain village of Agrafa is €80, including meals.
Mountain Action ( 22370 22940, 6945323895; www.mountainaction.gr, in Greek; Oikonomou 9) specialises in exploring the nearby canyons of Evrytania, along with mountain-biking excursions and canoeing around peaceful Lake Kremasta.
F-Zein ( 22370 80150; Zinopoulou 61) offers graded rafting trips to three rivers: Aheloös (easy), Tavropos (moderate) and Krikelopotamos (advanced; white water).
For child-friendly horse riding near town (best viewed with drink in hand from the deck) check out the Saloon Park ( 22370 24606; riding per hr adult/child €20/10), a combination bar-restaurant and stable, 3km south of town. The unmistakable theme here is the American Old West, with a Jack Daniels–meets–ouzo ambience.
Sleeping
Hotel Galini ( 22370 22914; fax 22370 25623; Riga Fereou 3; s/d €25/40) The side-street Galini is a great budget choice, with simple rooms and friendly owners. From the plateia, walk 100m up Spyridonos Georgiou Tsitsara.
City Hotel Apollonion ( 22370 25001; www.hotelapollonion.gr; Athanasiou Karpenisioti 4; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast from €50/60/70/120; ) Rooms at the handsome Apollonion are mountain-modern, with carpeting and dark-wood touches, though bathrooms are smallish. Just 20m south of the central square.
Eating
Three Star Restaurant ( 22370 24800; Athanasiou Karpenisioti 35; mains €3.50-7; 8.30am-4am Wed-Mon) Karpenisi’s cheapest eatery is a hit with the local night owls. Owner-cook Christos learned his craft in Brooklyn, New York. Choose from cholesterol-raising bacon-and-egg breakfasts (€4), pasta, hearty soups, or tuck into a generous plate of pork chops for just €6.
Taverna Panorama ( 22370 25976; Riga Fereou 18; mains €4-8) Roomy tables and a leafy outdoor terrace give Panorama a family feel, and there’s a huge menu featuring plenty of grilled lamb or pork, plus a hearty goat and potato soup.
Taverna En Elladi ( 22370 22235; Kotsidou 4; mains €4.50-7.50) Look for the red-and-white tablecloths at this smart family-run taverna, just above the main square. There’s always a hearty homemade soup of the day, along with excellent oven-ready dishes such as chicken in wine with pasta (€6.50), and a mountain speciality, babaretsa, a tasty cheese and corn flour appetiser (€3).
Entertainment
If you’re in town during the busier winter months, catch some late-night, authentic live Greek music at Notes Live ( 69387 65562); Kosma Etolou 9; Fri & Sat). Things don’t get going until around midnight. And it’s roughly the same at Nefeles ( 22370 25200), opposite Agiou Georgiou church.
Getting There & Away
BUS
Karpenisi’s KTEL bus station ( 22370 80014) is 2.5km southeast of town. Buses run to Athens (€22.50, five hours, three daily), Lamia (€6.40, 1½ hours, five daily) and Agrinio (€9.70, 3½ hours, once daily).
Return to beginning of chapter
AROUND KARPENISI
From Karpenisi, a scenic mountain road leads south for 34km towards the village of Prousos, and the 12th-century Moni Panagias Proussiotissas ( 22370 80705). Pilgrims flock here on 23 August for the Feast of the Assumption, to drink holy water from the spring and to step into the cavelike katholikon (principal church of a monastery), which claims a miracle working icon of the Virgin Mary.
Just 14km south of Karpenisi are the twin villages of Megalo Horio (Big Village) and Mikro Horio (Little Village), with traditional stone houses, including the central Folklore Museum ( 22370 41502; admission free; 10am-1pm Fri-Sun Sep-Jun, 10am-1pm & 6-8pm Fri-Sun Jul & Aug). The more scenic Megalo Horio is also the starting