Greece - Korina Miller [191]
Nearby riverside Gavros attracts Karpenisi families in search of a good meal in the countryside, or a stroll along the Karpenisiotis River.
With your own transport, you can visit the restored village of Koryshades, reached by a marked turn-off about 3km southwest of Karpenisi. The same scenic road continues another 20km southwest to the quaint village of Fidakia, with knock-out views of Lake Kremasta. A combination pension-taverna-cafe, the Oihalia ( 22370 24554) makes a good day-trip destination.
Sleeping & Eating
Pension Agrambeli ( 22370 41148; agrambeli@yahoo.gr; Gavros; s/d/f incl breakfast from €55/85/120; ) This uniquely decorated mountain lodging in Gavros overlooks the river and Mt Talakondia. Each of the seven rooms varies in size and features, some with iron beds and area rugs, others with kitchens and fireplaces, all with fresh flowers.
Taverna To Spiti tou Psara (fisherman’s house; 22370 41202; Gavros; mains €4-9) At this nearby and excellent riverside taverna, a house speciality is fresh pestrofa (grilled wild trout; €8). The handmade pites (€3), baked lamb and the owner’s house-made wine justify a day trip from Karpenisi.
Taverna O Platanos ( 22370 25363; Prousos) This place overlooks the gorge and can provide a quick lunch of lamb souvlaki (€1.50) and Greek salad (€4).
Getting There & Away
BUS
Two local buses depart Karpenisi (on Monday and Friday only) for Megalo Horio, Mikro Horio and Gavros (€1.40, 25 minutes). A Friday bus continues to Prousos (€2.90, 50 minutes), but you’ll need to stay overnight, or return by taxi.
TAXI
From Karpenisi’s central plateia it’s €14 to Gavros, Megalo Horio or Mikro Horio; to Prousos, about €30.
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LAMIA ΛΑΜIΑ
pop 47,650
Lamia is the capital of the prefecture of Fthiotida, built in the foothills of Mt Orthys at the western end of the Maliakos Gulf. Although midway between Delphi and Meteora, Lamia rarely figures on travellers’ itineraries. But like many towns that are not dependent on tourism for their livelihood, Lamia is a vibrant and lively place year-round. It is famous for its kokoretsi (grilled lamb offal), kourabiedes (almond shortcake) and xynogalo (sour milk).
Orientation
Life in Lamia revolves around its rambling squares, two in particular. Plateia Eleftherias, with swank cafeterias, attracts a younger set, whereas Plateia Laou, shaded by large plane trees, kicks back with traditional kafeneia (coffee houses), bakeries and tavernas.
There’s a bustling street market on Riga Fereou and its side streets every Saturday morning.
Information
Six banks, all with ATMs, encircle Plateia Parkou.
Battle Net ( 22310 67424; Rozaki Angeli 40; per hr €1) Internet access opposite Hotel Athina.
Police station ( 22310 22431; Patroklou)
Post office (Athanasiou Diakou) Opposite Plateia Parkou.
Sights
Lamia’s frourio (fortress) is worth the hike just for the views. Within it is the Archaeological Museum ( 22310 29992; admission €2; 8.30am-3pm), which displays finds from Neolithic to Roman times, including some Hellenistic children’s toys.
The original Gorgopotamos Railway Bridge, 7km south of Lamia, was blown up by a coalition of British and Greek guerrilla forces, on 25 November 1942, in order to delay the German advance, and is considered one of the greatest acts of sabotage of the time. The reconstructed bridge spans a deep ravine, with the replacement piers in stark contrast to the originals. The spectacular attack put the Greek underground on the map, and forced the Germans to divert resources away from the Russian front.
About 20km southeast of Lamia is the narrow pass of Thermopylae, where, in 480 BC, Leonidas and a band of 300 brave Spartans managed to temporarily halt the invading Persian army of Xerxes. A statue