Greece - Korina Miller [201]
Anesis Hotel ( 24260 31123; www.hotelanesis.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €50/70/80; ) Along with its appealing location away from the street, the comfortable Anesis sports spacious pastel-toned rooms, though bathrooms are smallish. Breakfast is served on a vine-shaded terrace overlooking the sea.
Sofokles Hotel ( 24260 31230; www.sofokleshotel.com; s/d incl breakfast from €65/100; ) The inviting and helpful Sofokles features smart, well-appointed rooms with wood and marble touches, small iron balconies and a vine-covered breakfast terrace opposite the beach.
Also recommended:
Camping ground ( 24260 31319; fax 24260 32159; camp sites per adult/tent €5/5) Got a 2009 makeover, south of the waterfront.
Hotel Kentrikon ( 24260 31232; www.bungalows-kentrikon.gr, in Greek; s/d/ste from €65/78/130; ) Nicely set back, excellent service.
Eating & Drinking
Taverna Orea Ammoudia ( 24260 32126; mains €4-8) Spread out under a large plane tree at the end of Papa Nero beach, this efficient family taverna does excellent versions of oven-ready mains such as baked cod or chicken and potatoes, along with lamb grills and unusual salads such as kritama (tomatoes with sea herbs). A thatched bar serves up cool drinks and ice cream in summer.
Taverna Poseidonas ( 24260 31222; mains €4-8) The owners of Poseidonas are proud of their local reputation for serving only their own catch. In addition to the usual by-the-kilo offerings, you can sample oven-ready stand-bys such as mousakas and stuffed zucchini flowers (both €6) which change daily.
Taverna Akrogiali Apostolis ( 24260 31112; mains €5-10) Among the waterfront tavernas. Charming proprietor and host Apostolis serves up generous portions of taverna stand-bys such as lamb in lemon sauce, vlita (amaranth) and spetsofaï (sausage and pepper stew).
Also recommended:
Pizza Venezia ( 24260 31093; pizza €7-9) Snappy verandah pizzeria.
Lithos Bar ( 24260 32027) Open late for drinks, early for coffee.
DAMOUHARI & MOURESSI
ΝΤΑΜOYΧΑΡH & ΜΟΥΡΕΣΙ
Picturesque Damouhari is next to a rambling grove of olive trees that borders a pebble beach and protected cove that once shielded the hamlet from passing pirate ships. According to local lore, the village got its name from the expression dos mou hari (give me grace). The little church of Agios Nikolaos contains several fine frescoes. (Apostolis at the taverna next door keeps the key). Damouhari is also the starting point for a beautiful 4km walk to Fakistra Beach. Damouhari enjoyed brief fame from the 2008 movie, Mama Mia! (with Meryl Streep), which borrowed the secluded port for a couple of weeks of filming.
Nestled off the main road, 3km north of Tsangarada, is the mellow village of Mouressi, known for its cherries, chestnuts and mouria (mulberries). There are great views of the Aegean from the lime-tree shaded plateia.
Sleeping & Eating
Domatia Victoria ( 24260 49872; Damouhari; s/d €45/55; ) One of two very decent domatia in Damouhari, this one has views of the bay.
Old Silk Store ( 24260 49086, 6937156780; www.pelionet.gr; Mouressi; d from €65) This 19th-century neoclassical gem, with personality to spare, is a Mouressi landmark and features traditional-style rooms in a garden setting, with an available homemade breakfast of fresh-baked goodies and seasonal fruit (€10). British transplant Jill Sleeman runs the show, along with Mulberry Travel (same phone), which can take care of travel details, arrange cooking lessons, and organise guided walks in the Pelion, often accompanied by the resident donkey, Boy George.
Hotel Damouhari ( /fax 24260 49840; Damouhari; r from €85; ) You’ll need to book well in advance for one of the quaint and creaky rooms – however, stop to check out the nautical antiques in the lobby, or to have a drink in the Kleopatra Miramar bar.
Taverna O Vangelis ( 24260 49609; Mouressi; mains €4-7.50) Hard-working cook, server and chatty host Vangelis has a loyal following for his good grills (pork chops,