Greece - Korina Miller [202]
Taverna Karagatsi ( 24260 49841; Damouhari; mains €4-9) Operated by the same family as at Hotel Damouhari, Karagatsi’s flower-in-his-ear cook, Apostolis, serves up fine taverna standards, plus big Greek salads and tasty mezedhes such as taramasalata, all overlooking the tiny bay below.
Other good choices:
Taverna Bastounis ( 24260 49207; Damouhari; mains €4.50-8) Fresh fish always.
Taverna To Tavernaki ( 24260 49416; Mouressi; mains €5.50-9) Opposite the BP station.
TSANGARADA ΤΣΑΓΚΑΡAΔΑ
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Tsangarada (tsang-ah-rah-dah), nestling in oak and plane forests, is a rambling and spread-out village comprising the four separate communities of Agio Taxiarhes, Agios Stefanos, Agia Kyriaki and Agia Paraskevi, the largest of the group and just north of the main Volos–Milies–Tsangarada road. The plateia’s plane tree is said to be one of the largest and oldest in Greece. There is an ATM next to the post office, and next to that, a small tourist office ( 24260 48993; 10am-2pm) with maps and wi-fi.
Sights & Activities
Serpentine Organic Garden ( 24260 49060; www.serpentin-garden.com; admission by donation) is a one-woman labour of love, the inspiration of Doris Schlepper, whose imagination has created a virtual museum of all things green and flowering, including rare trees and roses, along with sustainable vegie, berry and herb gardens. Doris offers one- to two- week bed-and-board volunteer internships, part of World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF; www.wwoof.org) and opens to visitors by appointment.
Like much of the Pelion Peninsula, Tsangarada is prime hiking territory. Two relatively simple and unguided hikes begin nearby. From the square of Agia Paraskevi, it’s two hours down to the small bay at Damouhari. And from the village of Xourichti, 4km south of Agia Paraskevi, a good cross-ridge path leads to the village of Milies, a hike of nearly three hours.
Sleeping & Eating
There are several domatia and roadside tavernas near Plateia Paraskevi and on the way to Mylopotamos.
Villa Ton Rodon ( 24260 49201; www.villatonrodon.gr, in Greek; Agia Paraskevi; s/d/tr incl breakfast €50/60/65; ) This tidy pension with balcony views is surrounded by the family fruit orchard, just 50m off the main road.
Lost Unicorn Hotel ( 24260 49930; www.lostunicorn.com; Agia Paraskevi; s incl breakfast €60-70, d incl breakfast €90-110; ) Persian carpets, slow-swirling fans and antique-outfitted rooms grace this elegant and well-appointed 19th-century mansion set in a beautiful glade. The Greek and English owners, Christos and Clare, keep things informal, and make a garden breakfast worthy of the scenery, complete with singing nightingales.
Taverna To Kalivi ( 24260 49578; mains €5-9) Look for the small wooden sign at the top of Plateia Taxiarhes to find this well-regarded old-fashioned taverna, known for meat stews, lamb grills with pasta, and wild greens in season.
MYLOPOTAMOS ΜΥΛΟΠΟΤΑΜΟΣ
Scenic Mylopotamos is divided by a rocky outcrop, with a natural tunnel connecting two small beautiful beaches. It’s 7km along the road from Tsangarada’s Agia Paraskevi.
Sleeping & Eating
Diakoumis Rooms ( 24260 49203; www.diakoumis.gr; s/d/tr from €50/70/80; ) Just 1km before the village and beach, genial owners Stathis and Athina have made the most of this dramatic cliff-side lodging. Light and airy stone-floored rooms have clear views of the bay and beyond, as well as four self-catering apartments (from €80).
Taverna Angelika ( 24260 49588; mains €5-9) This is a regular stop for many local Pelion residents who appreciate the good food and wine, not to mention the breezy view. Stuffed calamari, a generous Greek salad and plenty of local wine runs about €25 for two.
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THE LITTLEST TRAIN
In 1895, a 13km railway line was built between Volos and Ano Lehonia. By 1903, the narrow-gauge line was extended to Milies, making the town a prosperous centre of commerce. To Trenaki ( 24210 24056; adult/child €12.90/8.50), the steam train that used to chug along this route, retired formally in 1971, but