Greece - Korina Miller [203]
A restored Belgian coal-burning locomotive pulled the train when the route first reopened. But in 2000, a new diesel engine went into service after the train operators grew tired of following the smoke-belching original with a water tanker to put out the frequent grass fires started by airborne sparks. Despite the environmental upgrade, To Trenaki is still called Moudzouris, an affectionate term meaning ‘the smudger’.
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West-Central Pelion
VOLOS TO PINAKATES, VYZITSA & MILIES
ΒΟΛΟΣ ΠΡΟΣ πιακατεσ, ΒΥΖΙΤΣΑ & ΜΗΛΙΕΣ
From Volos, the west-coast road heads south through the touristy villages of Agria and Ano Lehonia, where a branch road leads inland to Agios Vlasios, Pinakates, Vyzitsa and Milies, while the main road continues to neighbouring Kato Gatzea, Ano Gatzea and Kala Nera. After the tortuous and narrow roads of the eastern Pelion villages, this stretch of road is a blessing, and a great alternative to crowded Volos as a base for exploring the Pelion. The efficient Hotel Nirvana ( 24230 22205; www.hotel-restaurant-nirvana.com; d/tr incl breakfast from €50/60; ) is opposite the only decent beach on Kala Nera Bay.
Two nearby attractions merit a stop. The Little Train of Pelion begins its old-fashioned run at Ano Lehonia (see The Littlest Train, above). One of its quaint station stops is Ano Gatzea, home to the Museum of the Olive ( 24230 22009; www.mouseioelias.gr, in Greek; admission free; 8am-5pm), set in an old stone mansion with sparkling displays of tools, presses and storage vessels, plus a small shop.
PINAKATES
πιακατεσ
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An old plane tree anchors Plateia Agios Dimitrios, home to the church, two tavernas, a small fountain, ceramic shop and wood-oven bakery. Pristine Pinakates only acquired electricity in 1973, and from the looks of it, things haven’t gotten out of hand.
Beautifully restored in 2007, Hotel Ta Xelidonakia (Little Swallows; 24230 86920; www.pinakates.com; d/tr incl breakfast €100/120; ) is a classic mansion that balances history and comfort in grand fashion. The verandah is anchored by a 3000L chestnut wine barrel. Nearby Taverna Drosia ( 24230 86772; mains €4-8.50; dinner) serves Pelion favourites such as baked goat and spetsofaï, with good local wine always on hand.
VYZITSA
ΒΥΖΙΤΣΑ
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Between Pinakates and Milies, handsome Vyzitsa’s cobbled pathways wind between traditional slate-roofed houses. To reach its shady central square and tavernas, walk up the cobbled path by Thetis Café.
Basic but comfortable, the old-fashioned Thetis Hotel ( 24230 86111; s/d incl breakfast from €35/45) is a stone pension, left of the car park, that’s quiet and welcoming. The adjacent and rustic stone cafe serves breakfast on the terrace.
The well-managed Hotel Stoikos ( 24230 86406; www.stoikoshotel.com; s/d/tr from €50/70/90; ) has a traditional look, especially with the beamed ceilings and stained glass of the spacious upper-floor rooms (great views). It’s good value in pricey Vyzitsa.
A 50m path from the plateia leads to Rooms Aphrodite Dimou ( 24230 86484; info@aphrodete.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast from €60/80/100; ), a private lodging with just three rooms, but each light and well cared for by owner Aphrodite.
The pick of Vyzitsa’s eateries is Georgaras Restaurant ( 24230 86359; mains €5-11), with a mountain menu featuring stews and rich sauces, including stuffed pork with orange sauce, and kouneli (rabbit in red-wine sauce).
MILIES ΜΗΛΙΕΣ
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Milies (mih-lih-ess) played a major role in the intellectual and cultural awakening that led to Greek independence. It was also the birthplace of Anthimos Gazis (1761–1828), who organised the revolutionary forces in Thessaly in 1821, and toured the mountain villages of the Pelion inspiring local resistance and leadership.
On the central square is Agios Taxiarhes, a church with beautiful 16th-century frescoes. Just 100m beyond the central square,