Greece - Korina Miller [204]
Sleeping & Eating
O Palios Stathmos (Old Station; 24230 86425; www.paliosstathmos.com; s/d incl breakfast from €40/60) Nestled among a grove of plane trees, this comfortable pension recalls a bygone era, but only from the balconied rooms facing the narrow-gauge rail station.
Korbas Bakery ( 24230 86219; pies €1.50-4) Gastronomic highlights of Milies include the scrumptious tyropsomo and eliopsomo (olive bread) at this popular bakery on the main road.
Anna Na Ena Milo ( 24230 86889; snacks €2-4; 9am-10pm) The name of this cosy crêpe-and-jam cafe derives from a famous children’s reader called Anna Have an Apple.
Taverna Panorama ( 24230 86128; mains €5-7) About 100m up from the central square (and nearly covered in climbing roses), this cosy grill serves up Pelion favourites such as zucchini pie, pork chops in wine, spetsofaï and kouneli.
South Pelion
SOUTH TO TRIKERI
The southern part of the Pelion has a wide-open feel to it, with sparsely forested hills and countless olive groves. Before heading inland after Kala Nera, the road skirts the little coastal fishing village of Afissos, winds upwards through to the attractive farming community of Argalasti, and then forks – the left fork continues inland, the right goes to the coastal resorts of Horto and Milina. From Milina the road branches southeast towards Platanias and southwest to Trikeri.
HORTO & MILINA ΧΟΡΤΟ & ΜΗΛIΝΑ
Milina is the larger of these two coastal villages, and sees many package tourists. Both are on a quiet part of the peninsula with pristine water and a few inviting pebble beaches. Resourceful George Fleris of Milina Holidays ( 24230 65020; www.milina-holidays.com) on the waterfront can help with accommodation, as well as arranging bike and boat rentals, plus day cruises to nearby Palio Trikeri (adult/child €37/20). Walks to inland mountain villages such as Promiri or Lefkos have lately benefitted from the community-based efforts of the ‘Friends of the Kalderimi’, dedicated to maintaining and restoring these historic cobblestone paths.
And if you’re one of those people who think nostalgia isn’t what it used to be, turn your dial to the Old Radio Museum ( 69703 74922; admission free; daily May 16-Sep 14, Sat & Sun Sep 15-May 15) in the village of Lefkos, 5km east of Milina, to check out one collector’s pre-digital love affair with the original ‘wireless’.
Look for the family-friendly bungalows at Hotel Leda ( 24230 65696; Horto; s/d/f from €40/50/80; ) with beach bar and pool. Ouzerie Vangelis ( 24230 65465; Milina), one of a cluster of tavernas next to Milina’s main jetty, is excellent for seafood mezedhes and tsipouro.
TRIKERI ΤPIΚΕΡΙ
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There is an end-of-the-world feel about this part of the Pelion, as the road from Milina to Trikeri becomes more and more desolate. Donkeys outnumber cars in Trikeri, and the residents pride themselves on their tradition as seafarers, fighters against the Turks in the War of Independence, and upholders of traditional customs and dress. The week following Easter is one of constant revelry as dancing takes place every day and women try to outdo each other in their local costume finery.
AGIA KYRIAKI ΑΓIΑ ΚΥΡΙΑΚH
This is the last stop on the Pelion Peninsula, a steep 2km drive off the main road, or a quick 1km walk down a cobblestone path. This fishing village sees few tourists, and the bright, orange-coloured boats are put to good use by a hard-working population of around 200. There is one hotel, Agia Kyriaki Hotel ( 69787 71831; s/d €35/40) and three fish tavernas in a row, facing the opposite shores of Evia.
PALIO TRIKERI ΠΑΛΙO ΤΡIΚΕΡΙ
If you really must go that one step further to get away from it all, then head for this little island with a year-round population of 13, just off the coast; it’s often called